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    Member zh75's Avatar
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    Lee Enfield No4 Mk1 serial number question

    Hi guys,



    I'm looking into buying my first enfield, and as such I'm limited on my knowledge of them. I'm currently looking at 2 Enfields that I may buy but had a question about the serial number on one.

    The one is a 1941 No4 Mk1, the serial number on the side reads B with 1941 stamped under it and under that 9815 A. However, in my research I cant find where this would be a viable number with any of the factories. Anyone know if that could be a legitimate serial number for a 1941 no4 mk1?

    Thanks!

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    Really Senior Member Roy W's Avatar
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    B was the early mark of BSA before they became M47 and then M47C, so my guess is a BSA rifle , very early one, number 9815

    The A suffix means that it has non interchangeable parts, see this thread. https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=32036

    But I may be wrong

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  5. #3
    Member zh75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy W View Post
    B was the early mark of BSA before they became M47 and then M47C, so my guess is a BSA rifle , very early one, number 9815

    The A suffix means that it has non interchangeable parts, see this thread. https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=32036

    But I may be wrong
    Thanks for the help, thats very interesting about the A suffix. This specific rifle has a mismatched bolt, so seeing that it has the A suffix would it be better to avoid this rifle? My other option in this case is a 1943 longbranch all matching, but not sure if thats worth the $125 premium over a bolt mismatch 1941.

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    Really Senior Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zh75 View Post
    Thanks for the help, thats very interesting about the A suffix. This specific rifle has a mismatched bolt, so seeing that it has the A suffix would it be better to avoid this rifle? My other option in this case is a 1943 longbranch all matching, but not sure if thats worth the $125 premium over a bolt mismatch 1941.
    It would never have had a mismatched bolt in service - in all probability the importer or a later owner lost the original bolt and just 'fitted' another bolt, not being aware that Bolts are NOT plug and play and have to be properly fitted (fitted as in works needed to be done to FIT it correctly)
    A mismatched bolt can be dangerous - particularly if the locking lugs on both sides do not engage properly.

    I'd pay the extra $100 and get one that is 'as built' and has been properly worked on throughout its life.

    The suffix A was introduced later (mainly used by RoF Fazakerley) and used to signify something had to be 'hand fitted' usually due to a manufacturing fault such as a hole drilled oversize so had to be tapped a larger size and hence the correct screw/bolt would not fit.
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    Member zh75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield View Post
    It would never have had a mismatched bolt in service - in all probability the importer or a later owner lost the original bolt and just 'fitted' another bolt, not being aware that Bolts are NOT plug and play and have to be properly fitted (fitted as in works needed to be done to FIT it correctly)
    A mismatched bolt can be dangerous - particularly if the locking lugs on both sides do not engage properly.

    I'd pay the extra $100 and get one that is 'as built' and has been properly worked on throughout its life.

    The suffix A was introduced later (mainly used by RoF Fazakerley) and used to signify something had to be 'hand fitted' usually due to a manufacturing fault such as a hole drilled oversize so had to be tapped a larger size and hence the correct screw/bolt would not fit.
    Thanks for the great info. I figured I'd be better off going with an all matching having the chance. One more question, what do you think the value on a '43 longbranch all matching would be? Assuming its in pretty good but not perfect condition. Sorry, the enfield world is completely new to me lol

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    Really Senior Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zh75 View Post
    Thanks for the great info. I figured I'd be better off going with an all matching having the chance. One more question, what do you think the value on a '43 longbranch all matching would be? Assuming its in pretty good but not perfect condition. Sorry, the enfield world is completely new to me lol

    I'm in the UKicon so my pricing experience would not be much help - I believe there can even be huge differences in price in the US between states.

    Condition and originality are the key.
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    Really Senior Member Bindi2's Avatar
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    You never pay to much you may buy early. Do your own looksy because what I think is value is different to others. If you like it buy it. If you have a limit you wont go over looky looky till you see one you like.

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    Member zh75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bindi2 View Post
    You never pay to much you may buy early. Do your own looksy because what I think is value is different to others. If you like it buy it. If you have a limit you wont go over looky looky till you see one you like.
    That is very true. I'm just not knowledgeable enough about the Enfield world at this point to know where the prices are exactly to date. But, I went ahead and took the matching longbranch so I'm sure I'll be satisfied in person!

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    Search the threads here on the Lee enfields on what to look for traps and pit stops when you find one you like get pics of the rifle hopefully the seller will get pics of the stamping on the barrel near the chamber have to remove the top woods for that its a rare thing to have one in unissued condition or Mummy wrapped and they command a heavy premium the UF No.4's seem to be the most prevelant of these.
    If the seller says a rifle is unfired then thats bolocks as they all had to be proofed and sighted for the ammunition so every 303 has had rounds down the tube prior to issue and remember to buy the rifle not the story as some sellers tell tall tales on a rifles past unless they can prove it with provenence beyond a reasonable doubt.
    You can get some really nice examples of these weapons but take the time to at the very least learn the basics of what to look for in them as it may save you getting hoodwinked if in doubt post the weapon here like you have and the forum here will always give the best answer they can without handling the weapon.
    A couple with the No.4 I always looked at was what size bolt head it had say a 0 or a 1 that is a good start but still I carry a go & no go gauge (Yes I am obsessive) if it has say a No.3 bolt head then I may look a little deeper not saying the rifle is unsafe just the 3 is the largest of the bolt heads, make sure the bolt matches the rifle.
    Check the muzzle for dings on the crown or cord wear from the pull through wearing one side of the bore, look down the bore agains a light looking at the lands or a ringed (Bulged barrel) anyway thats just a few of the things I look at or place a WTB add on this site as someone may want to sell one don't know why as once you get one they multiply!
    Good luck and Happy new years to all.

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    Really Senior Member capt14k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bindi2 View Post
    You never pay to much you may buy early. Do your own looksy because what I think is value is different to others. If you like it buy it. If you have a limit you wont go over looky looky till you see one you like.
    True if you believe Milsurps will be the first bubble in history to not burst. Though with more free money being given to everyone prices should continue to rise for a bit, even if it is inflationary.


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