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Thread: No1 stock color stain, closest match for dark furniture.

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    Member waw44's Avatar
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    No1 stock color stain, closest match for dark furniture.

    I am splicing two pieces of Lithgowicon forends to make one complete one and will need stain to color match them . BLOicon by itself won't do it. I swear I came across a post where someone mentiones a specific stain color number from Minwax I think, which they found to be a good match for darker SMLE furniture. I can't find the post now. Help? Any suggestions?


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    Member smerdon42's Avatar
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    I would try to get the wood back to a much lighter color first and let it dry out ( I have used a non caustic oven cleaner ) wash off with running water and let dry then I have used dark walnut stain to blend in apply the stain wipe excess off and then repeat until you get the result you like . I liked letting it dry between coats of stain .then use 50/50 BLOicon and metholated spirits.

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    I agree with post #2, cleaning and let it dry first. I don't think Minwax has enough stain or color to do it though. If you have a MUCH lighter piece you could use die to bring it closer. Then a stain and maybe BLOicon...
    Regards, Jim

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    Yep, that's the plan. Both pieces are getting cleaned as much as possible before the splice work. I have Fiebings dyes; Dark Brown, Walnut, Chocolate, Show Brown , but with these is fire and forget because once you get them into the wood there is no coming back. With oil based stains mixed with BLOicon and Turpentine there is a good degree of undo available if things don't go well. I will do some trial and error on a scrap piece first of course.

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    Really Senior Member Bindi2's Avatar
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    You may have two totally different specie pieces of timber. No matter what you do they will kook different. Coachwood it self also ranges from white to a red depending where in the log it came from or where the log came from.

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    Senior Member BurtonP's Avatar
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    Matching different wood species is always difficult, but if you don't mind it ending up dark reddish-brown it can work. I use Fiebings leather dye, there is a walnut shade, but I tend to use a mix of many types. I thin with linseed oilicon and apply as I would for linseed oilicon - many coats over time. If it isn't a match I can always strip it off with acetone and try again. The darker the wood the easier it is to match this way.

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    You'll have better results using an alcohol based stain like Chestnut Ridge. It works on old dark wood as well as new unfinished. Try Dollar General clear ammonia for cleaning and degreasing which won't hurt anything. I wouldn't touch coachwood or any wood for that matter with any kind of oven cleaner, caustic or otherwise. Use raw linseed oilicon instead of boiled. It penetrates and isn't filled with chemicals to make it dry quicker.

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    Contributing Member Singer B's Avatar
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    Other than painting it, if the two woods are different, I don't see how you can make it match. Even with oils or stains, where the two pieces join, you will some kind of dark line showing the joint. Even if you use wood filler, I think the joint will be visible. I've seen that on several Mosin stocks.

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    I have had great success with this product.
    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod7677.aspx

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    Senior Member tatou's Avatar
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    I second (or third) Fiebings Leather dye.
    Dark brown is the only color i use from them... the way i apply it dictates how dark it ends up.
    So far i find it will match just about any type of woods but for best results it is best to try to match the grain and hide any joints under a band.
    If hiding the joint is not possible try at least to have it tightest as possible, so the line is very small.

    The technique i use was taught to me by a forum member.
    You apply many coats of dye until the wood is saturated and you end up with almost a solid color.
    After an appropriate drying time you start applying the oil like you would normally would.
    After 3 to 5 coats of oil you start applying the next coats with fine steel wool.
    Rubbing the oil just enough to remove stain to reveal the wood grain.
    The more you rub, the ''lighter'' the wood becomes.
    Adjust your rubbing (or scrubbing if you prefer) to each portion of the 2 pieces joined together so they appear a close match.
    Once you are satisfied with the color, apply additional coats of oil with just a rag to seal and finish everything.
    If you mess up you can always start over with the dye, etc etc.

    On occasion i add a sploosh of black here and there.... you often see dark stain spots on old stocks and i find that this adds to give it some ''authenticity''... also helps to take your eyes away from those joint lines, if you have some.
    More often then not a good staining job end up taking several used of different colors or type of stains/dyes
    Don't forget to wear cloves... it is messy. (skin is technically leather and it's weird to explain why you have brown hands... don't ask me how i know...)
    Last edited by tatou; 01-22-2021 at 09:10 PM.

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