Springfield Krag rifle builder.

[99621]

Hello everyone, I have a collection of military rifles that keeps growing and growing.
Here in Alaska during the winter snow, I try and keep busy, one of the best ways to keep busy is to build old firearms from scratch using factory original parts.

From the beginning of my collection, I realized that a old firearm could be jacked up, dangerous to shoot, basically a pile of junk and that's why I build them so they are period correct down to the last nut and screw, the headspace is correct so I can shoot any rifle or handgun in my armory. These rifles were made to go into battle, so I don't have any hesitation in shooting them, I need the finish the same, and the stock, to keep it original. Here in Alaska we can have any firearm in the world as long as it is ATF approved, which means we have a lot of firearms to choose from. I personally have a lot of firearms from around the world, mostly military.

I have learned that forums are a great resource for knowledge, research, and books. If you don't mind me picking your knowledge, I have some questions.

I purchased the Joe Poyer book on Krag rifles, his books are great, and it really has in depth information on the parts. I've used his books before and I keep notes inside them for a lot of rifles in my armory.

I want to post some questions with this thread and hopefully get some answers.

[99621]

Mostly everything is explained in my research, except for the extractor spring. The diagram doesn't show the extractor spring and I am trying to locate the place for which it fits.



As you can see it is not shown in the diagram.

[browningautorifle]

It fits in the front of the extractor...in the corresponding hole and slot. The book shows this spring is not essential but added merely as a precautionary measure... Shown roughly circled.

[99621]

It fits in the front of the extractor...in the corresponding hole and slot. The book shows this spring is not essential but added merely as a precautionary measure... Shown roughly circled.

Cool, and thanks, I appreciate your help.

[butlersrangers]

FWIW - Page #145 of Poyer's book, "The American Krag Rifle and Carbine", has a drawing of the left-side of the Krag Extractor, that attempts to show the recess where the Extractor-Spring is located.

IMHO - There are some 'sub-assemblies' on U.S. Krag models, that were not intended to be taken fully apart, except for repair. These 'sub-assemblies' can be cleaned and lubricated as a unit.
Examples would be: the safety-lever, the magazine cut-off lever, the Striker-rod & Knob, and the bolt-sleeve/extractor/extractor-spring assembly.
These sub-assemblies have some small parts, (springs, rivets, and shaped pieces), that are staked or crimped into place. Taking them apart causes needless wear.

The Krag Extractor is kind of a marvelous flame-blued "wonder spring", with an extractor 'claw' hanging on its end.
It serves as an extractor, a bolt-guide, a bolt hold-open spring, and a bolt 'release'.
Through good metallurgy and heat-treat, it is a surprisingly strong part.

The Krag extractor (which is a tempered spring) is assisted by a subtly positioned second spring (the extractor-spring).
As the Krag Bolt moves forward and nears the point of rotation, the beveled front edge of the extractor-spring slides under a 'shelf' milled into the left receiver wall and adds further tension to the extractor-claw's engagement with the cartridge rim.

[99621]

FWIW - Page #145 of Poyer's book, "The American Krag Rifle and Carbine", has a drawing of the left-side of the Krag Extractor, that attempts to show the recess where the Extractor-Spring is located.

IMHO - There are some 'sub-assemblies' on U.S. Krag models, that were not intended to be taken fully apart, except for repair. These 'sub-assemblies' can be cleaned and lubricated as a unit.
Examples would be: the safety-lever, the magazine cut-off lever, the Striker-rod & Knob, and the bolt-sleeve/extractor/extractor-spring assembly.
These sub-assemblies have some small parts, (springs, rivets, and shaped pieces), that are staked or crimped into place. Taking them apart causes needless wear.

The Krag Extractor is kind of a marvelous flame-blued "wonder spring", with an extractor 'claw' hanging on its end.
It serves as an extractor, a bolt-guide, a bolt hold-open spring, and a bolt 'release'.
Through good metallurgy and heat-treat, it is a surprisingly strong part.

The Krag extractor (which is a tempered spring) is assisted by a subtly positioned second spring (the extractor-spring).
As the Krag Bolt moves forward and nears the point of rotation, the beveled front edge of the extractor-spring slides under a 'shelf' milled into the left receiver wall and adds further tension to the extractor-claw's engagement with the cartridge rim.

Attachment 115861Attachment 115862Attachment 115863Attachment 115864Attachment 115865

Thanks!

I can see the place where it fits into, that's awesome thanks. I didn't know that the extractor had it attached on to it, but it is there.




Thanks again.

[99621]

I can't understand why the rear sights go for so much money, $200.00 and up. It's crazy to me that the whole complete sight is like gold.

I found a complete base and ladder for $50.00, missing the ladder sights, then for $40.00 found the missing parts. I can live with scrounging for parts.

[butlersrangers]

I love scrounging parts and completing and restoring damaged Krag sights. (military and commercial)



Until recently, good Krag rifle sights routinely sold from $45 to $75 on ebay.
Carbine rear-sight models have long brought a premium, selling for three to ten times the amount of the rifle version.

Krag parts are getting more difficult to find and prices are getting silly.

[99621]

I love scrounging parts and completing and restoring damaged Krag sights. (military and commercial)

Until recently, good Krag rifle sights routinely sold from $45 to $75 on ebay.
Carbine rear-sight models have long brought a premium, selling for three to ten times the amount of the rifle version.

Krag parts are getting more difficult to find and prices are getting silly.

I have been fortunate enough to find most of the receiver parts, stock parts, checking all over the web for a good price, quality parts, it's really good when you can visually inspect each part for any issues before putting it together. I still have to locate a stock, however I'm not ready to start that part of my search.
Again, I am on the hunt for: good condition parts, excellent screws, nothing to be refinished, same for the wooden stock, forearm.

[99621]

I have all of the parts, only exception is the wood.

Right now I am contemplating on re-indexing the barrel, reamer the 30-40 chamber to close the no-go gap.

Do you think that it would affect the rear sight position to the wooden stock?