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  1. #41
    Contributing Member Singer B's Avatar
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    I use that site for info and then match it up with the date on the barrel to narrow it down further.

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    Member Matt_X's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
    serial number 1959xxx. USCARBINECAL30M1.com
    shows sometime between January and October 1943, likely closer to the end? Does anyone know of any other production records?
    Interesting website. I'm not familiar with who put it together. Looks like it hasn't been updated sicne 2012.

    The book by Ruth & Duff have a table estimating serial numbers with production dates for most of the manufacturers.
    Ruth & Duff put your number as July to Sept 1943.

    The Carbine Club has spreadsheets which include serials numbers that have been associated with specific dates.
    I haven't looked at NPM, but from what I've seen on others - particularly Saginaw - I suggest you use your own judgement in deciding whether the evidence aligns with the proposed date of manufacture. Saginaw has been difficult for a number of reasons and so there can be different interpretations. Each company presents its own quirks for researching and estimating production dates.
    M1 Carbine Serial Number Spread Sheets - The Carbine Collector's Club - Page 1

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  6. #43
    Really Senior Member DaveHH's Avatar
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    NPM did not follow their numbers in sequence. Probably the best way to date the gun is by the barrel. Mine is in the 425XXX number group and dates to the end of the contract April 1944 the barrel is one of the IBM Corp barrels that they received at the end of production.

    Reloading for the 30 carbine: Accurate #9 is the correct powder for the carbine. As is H110 W296. You can use 2400 in a pinch. You must be aware that the H110 will work fine but becomes dangerous if you use less than noted. The most important component of the carbine reload is cartridge length. Using a case that exceeds maximum can and will blow up a gun. During the war, it became such a big problem that ammunition makers were required to check case length of every round they made. The longer case would allow the bolt to close but not completely lock, the result was catastrophic blow up. You also must pay close attention to overall length. If the bullet sticks out too far, it will drag the tip inside the magazine and cause jams.

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  8. #44
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Thread Starter
    I found the marking on the bolt! there is an "N" on the outboard of left lug. The firing pin has N-N on the rear, and the extractor has a W.
    I gave the wood a wiping down with cotton rag and lacquer thinner. There were some "new" scratches in the wood. Being careful not to over scrub, the lacquer thinner will move the color around so new everything is uniform. To my surprise once all the oil and grime lifted was a cross-cannons next to the NPM on the butt. It's faint but now clearly visible, and even more so after I wiped on a fresh coat of raw linseed oilicon. I'll take a picture when it dries and everything is all assembled.

  9. #45
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    I spent a few hours yesterday on the internet for powder, brass, and 110gr bullets. I found plenty of bullets at blue-collar reloading, nothing in stock for brass and powder worth the price asked anywhere. I did find https://www.sgammo.com in Oklahoma with 30 carbine in stock. Prices aren't great, but not the gouge-your-eyes-out prices elsewhere. Searching some other calibers for general comparison, they have lots of Tula 223 and 9mm in stock at almost pre-pandemic prices. All the US brass case stuff is still pretty high. Still, 60 cents a round is far better than the $1 plus per round on gunbroker or other sites. I bought few hundred rounds of 30 carbine. Once accurate confirms the no. 7, I'll have brass at least and be able to shoot 30 carbine for quite a while - hopefully until things stabilize.

  10. #46
    Member flydthecat's Avatar
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    Take this for what it’s worth, but I have seen a post from another forum (well outdated), which indicated the poster had contacted the manufacturer concerning accurate #7 carbine loads. 9.9 to 11.1 grains was the recipe as I recall. I load 10-grains of #7 in a carbine I have converted to 9mm, but that is under a 115-grain .355 slug. Never tried it in the 30-carbine though. The pressures generated in a carbine converted to 9mm has to match 7.62x33 pressures to cycle.
    11-grains in the smaller chamber and bore might just work. Let us know what you hear from your inquiry.
    Last edited by flydthecat; Today at 01:04 PM.

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    Well, I have a reputation for not having any patience….at all. I live in the country, have my own range and had my reloading supplies handy. I loaded-up a few 110-grain Xtreme bullets with OAL 1.65, Wolf SRP over 10.3-grains of #7.

    Saginaw Gear cycles just fine, feels good and ejection is positive. Based on observations of the ejection, probably could go up to 11-grains, but 10.3 works for me. Have not shot for accuracy or thru the chrono, but the load feels very good.
    Last edited by flydthecat; Today at 02:17 PM.

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  13. #48
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flydthecat View Post
    Well, I have a reputation for not having any patience….at all. I live in the country, have my own range and had my reloading supplies handy. I loaded-up a few 110-grain Xtreme bullets with OAL 1.65, Wolf SRP over 10.3-grains of #7.

    Saginaw Gear cycles just fine, feels good and ejection is positive. Based on observations of the ejection, probably could go up to 11-grains, but 10.3 works for me. Have not shot for accuracy or thru the chrono, but the load feels very good.
    just to be clear...this test was in 9mm referenced in your previous post? or was the Saginaw Gear rifle in your test a 30 carbine? Thanks much for your bravery in trying for us!

    I provided a link in this thread to the post where I found the OP emailed the manufacturer and they said 9. to . Your memory may be of the same post.

  14. #49
    Member flydthecat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
    just to be clear...this test was in 9mm referenced in your previous post? or was the Saginaw Gear rifle in your test a 30 carbine? Thanks much for your bravery in trying for us!
    I fired these in a 30-caliber Saginaw carbine. There is quite a difference in case capacity, the 30-caliber having more volume. 10-11 grains of #7 leaves a lot of space in the 7.62 x 33 case, but there seems to be no ill-effects and it shot very clean.

    I have as much #7 as I do anything else and it is good to know it will work. I will get around to doing some accuracy and chrono work in a few days, but I doubt very seriously that I am pushing 2,000fps.


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