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    Legacy Member jskeys's Avatar
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    1842 Springfield

    I just picked up this 1842 Springfield with bayonet. It was made in 1846 according to the markings. Not having any experience with these truly historic weapons, I do not want to do something stupid. So I am seeking advice from those of you knowledgeable about these weapons. I first want to preserve it without damaging it. It has a very spotted patina on the metal and there are no real dings on the stock. Based on comparing it to pictures from the internet, it is unmodified (still .69 cal smooth bore) with baronet. Hoping for advice on steps to take. Thanks in advance for your help.

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Legacy Member steveu's Avatar
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    Get a can of this : Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax. Good for wood and metal.

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    Legacy Member rescuerandy2's Avatar
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    Good Morning,

    That patina is what comes with age when dealing with the oldies. As long as you do not have pitting or rust, you just have natural aging of the steel. Sounds like the musket is in good shape and Renaissance Wax is the best. However, I just do not have the patience to deal with waxing my weapons. As one who has muskets back to the Revolutionary War, I have to fight constantly against mother nature here in South Florida. My go to is BIRCHWOOD CASEY Barricade. In 15 years of usage, I have never seen rust form on my muskets.

    Downside to Barricade is its longevity. Because all my muskets being shooters, they do not sit too long at idle. After the range, I clean and then spray the metal with Barricade and the wood just gets wiped down. So, if you do not plan to shoot them, then Renaissance is the way to go. Just take you time and enjoy the history in your hands. Randy

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    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rescuerandy2 View Post
    Downside to Barricade is its longevity.
    A comparison of rust preventatives was done long while back by Brownells. I know I posted it here a few times, and it's referenced in many other forums but since Brownell's reworked their website everyone's links are dead. So here is a hopefully more permanent one.
    https://ia804604.us.archive.org/15/i...atives/GCC.pdf

    Another helpful reference that gets mentioned often
    https://www.nrafamily.org/articles/2...vent-gun-rust/

    To summarize - renaissance wax is best for things that get hung on walls and rarely handled, and with gloves if it does.
    For things you shoot, or things that get touched or played with, or moved around the safe a lot - RIG grease is superior to anything else. a close second is wd-40, but of course thinner oils don't last as long.
    for things in deep storage - hidden in walls, etc. cosmolineicon - and some of those fancy plastic bags is the proven champion. But this is not practical though for anything you want to ever use and enjoy, no matter how infrequent.

    A note on rust inhibitors is never use them on bare, dry, finish or your "patina" for that matter (like something fresh out of a bluing tank, or something you've deep cleaned by degreasing). In this case rust inhibitors will begin removing your finish, and your 'patina' - and yes, patina is just another word for rust - so is bluing of course, but patina is the bad kind. If the pores of your finish is already holding clean oil, you can use your favorite gun oil with rust inhibitors to keep new rust from developing. WD-40 is the best, as shown in the comparison.

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    Legacy Member jamie5070's Avatar
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    Ballistol gets high regards for metal and wood

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    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamie5070 View Post
    and wood
    I would politely disagree on this point. When it comes to wood any petroleum based lubricant or oil on will soak into the fibers, soften the wood, and eventually turn the fibers to mush. Take a buttstock off a 100yr old shotgun that was loved to death with oil and you will see what I'm talking about. The deterioration happens fastest on the end grain. The damage can take a long time as the oil works to disolve the original polymerized finish that originally sealed the grain. Once this is penetrated the wood soaks it in like a sponge dissolves the cell walls. On non-end grain the destruction happens more slowly. It can take many decades or a lifetime, but the damage happens nonetheless. Do the next owner, and posterity, a favor and don't use petroleum anything on wood. Turpentine is made from tree resin, and is perfect for cleaning wood of dirt and grimy fingers. You can clean and protect in one step by diluting a little linseed or tung oil with a few drops of turpentine. Wipe a little on. Let sit for 15 minutes, scrub with a clean rag as you wipe off all excess, and put it away until next time. The key takeaway is that a polymerizing oil is the only type of oil suitable for wood.

    When I restore a stock damaged by lifetimes of petroleum based oil, the damaged fibers fall off as a powder with a cabinet scraper. The end grain however must be stabilized without removing material, lest the fitup be altered. After removing all lubricants from the wood using heat and powdered chalk, glass bedding the socket with a very thin layer of epoxy ensures that no oil will penetrate the end grain ever again while maintaining proper fit. If you do it right, the repair won't be noticeable at all. Many shotgun or lever guns are ruined by shooting with a stock slightly loosened from oil soaked end grain. Just tightening the stock bolt might seem to solve the problem temporarily, but actually makes it worse. Prevent all this with proper maintenance.

    Everything has its purpose though. In my experience ballistol cannot be beat for removing light surface rust. A few drops and some light passes with 0000 steel wool is all it takes (says as much on the side of the bottle!), and if that doesn't work ballistic and a more aggressive scrub with pure copper wool, or a brass brush, or the edge of an older pure copper penny for more stubborn spots will do the job.

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