Springfield 1903

[ssgross]

What gauges and where to buy them?

EDIT: I should have started pointing you to read about what headspace is first, since you don't have knowledge of the gauges.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headspace_(firearms)

You have a few options. At minimum you need the field gauge.
https://www.amazon.com/Forster-Produ.../dp/B004LHCUUG
Strip your bolt down (take out the fire control and remove the extractor). Clean your chamber, insert the gauge, and gently close the bolt. don't force it. If your bolt falls short of closing, you're in business - mostly. The field gauge is the max safe headspace. If your bolt closes, the rifle is unsafe and you should not attempt to fire it.
Ideally the bolt won't close on a no-go gauge either.
Now...if someone rebarreled your rifle and didn't check headspace, it is possible that your bolt won't even close on the go-gauge (min headspace). I've had this happen before as have others here. It's cheaper to just get the set of gauges go, no-go, and field then one at a time.
https://www.amazon.com/Forster-Produ.../dp/B084C37PWR

If you only want to buy one gauge, there is a field sobriety test you can do to get an idea of where it's at. I say sobriety because make sure you are entirely sober when you purposefully remove the fire control - firing pin (striker, whatever your vocabulary), spring, etc), and put those parts away in another room out of your reach. Keep the extractor on. Then take a factory round, insert in the chamber, and make sure your bolt closes. You can then use a piece of tape on the base of the cartridge. Depending on the thickness of the tape, you should feel your bolt drag on the tape as you try to close it. I think aluminum tape is like 0.003 thick. If your headspace is good, you will certainly feel the bolt drag on 2 layers (0.006). Basically, if the bolt drags on a round you need a go-gauge. If it drags on 1 or 2 pieces of tape, you need just the no-go. If it doesn't drag until 3 or more, you need a field gauge. For 30-06, the difference between max and min headspace is 0.010, so you see the tape trick is just ball parking within that spectrum.

Some might balk at testing with a live round - but it is pretty common for handloaders to do the same on cartridges coming off the press. Again...NO FIRE CONTROL anywhere close to the rifle when using a live round.

[oldfoneguy]

I agree with all said above but just want to expand on it slightly with something that shouldn't have to be said, but none of us are aware of your level of experience so...

NEVER accept the tape method as a substitute for actual headspace gauges. It will get you in the ballpark but no closer. When I use headspace gauges I strip my bolts completely including the extractor collar to remove any artificial interference. What you are actually looking for is the bolt handle fully seating or not depending on which gauge used.

If you don't want to spend the money on a set of gauges for possibly one use please bring the rifle to a gunsmith before shooting it. This should be done with every and any old milsurp you may purchase in the future. Beats the hell out of having a bolt sticking out of the side of your head.

[Rakkasan]

Thanks for all the advice, I’ll take all I can get, I just went on Amazon to order all the gauges.

[RCS]

It is a smart move to order new headspace gages for 30-06

I have a collection of US military WW2 gages for 30 cal (M1 and M2) but would not trust them as they have been used quite a lot over the years. they start with 1.940 and end at 1.950.

Arsenal gages were sent to Springfield or RIA to be checked and sometimes re-calibrated once a year and will have a gage card with each gage.

[togor]

I agree with all said above but just want to expand on it slightly with something that shouldn't have to be said, but none of us are aware of your level of experience so...

NEVER accept the tape method as a substitute for actual headspace gauges. It will get you in the ballpark but no closer. When I use headspace gauges I strip my bolts completely including the extractor collar to remove any artificial interference. What you are actually looking for is the bolt handle fully seating or not depending on which gauge used.

If you don't want to spend the money on a set of gauges for possibly one use please bring the rifle to a gunsmith before shooting it. This should be done with every and any old milsurp you may purchase in the future. Beats the hell out of having a bolt sticking out of the side of your head.

Removing the extractor collar brings more problems than it solves, don't you think?

[oldfoneguy]

Removing the extractor collar brings more problems than it solves, don't you think?

I've never had a problem opening one up or returning it to the previously removed from position. If it's not original to the bolt, such as a bolt assembled from loose parts there may be a bind or burr preventing smooth operation and a hangup of the bolt giving a false reading. Just removing another possible negative variable.

[Sapper740]

Forster makes "GO", "NO GO", and "FIELD" headspace gauges for a variety of cartridges.

Amazon.com : Forster Products 30-06 GO Outdoors

[Rakkasan]

Forster makes "GO", "NO GO", and "FIELD" headspace gauges for a variety of cartridges.

Amazon.com : Forster Products 30-06 GO Outdoors

That’s exactly what I got delivered today

[Rakkasan]

That’s exactly what I got delivered today

Ok guys got a report, gauges came in today, go, no go,and field gauge, stripped bolt including extractor, put in Go gauge first .. bolt closed, put in no go bolt did not close, put in field gauge it certainly didn’t close. Am I good to go now?

[MAC702]

With a Forster gauge set, that means you are within .006" of "go," so you are plenty good!