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Thread: M1 GARAND Gas Cylinder & front sight question (range issues)

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    M1 GARAND Gas Cylinder & front sight question (range issues)

    I have gotten a lot of great info here, so I have a question up for grabbs here...
    When I took my M1icon Garand to the range for the first time a few weeks ago, it shot good, it felt awesome, I loved it...
    Yeah, sometimes there's a but... Even thinking I had properly greased everything, really well, and going through the rifle top to bottom, It fired each time I pulled the trigger, and ejected the spent round. BUT... It failed to strip the subsequent round out of the enblock once in a while. Here are my observations for you to mull over...
    1). AMMO= 30-06 M2 BALL AMA-90 loaded in unmarked/unstamped Enblocks w/heavy park.
    2). Rifle= Springfield 1944, cleaned and greased and lubed up real good.
    3). rifle fired in a Caldwell Lead slead shooting rest with no wieghts installed (didn't have any).
    4). @ 100yrds all bullets in black, on SR-1 nra reduced target.
    5). The Top rounds on all enblock ammo is on the right on all my enblocks, as per instructions.
    6). The first two Enblocks I fired were HXP Greek, with G.I .Enblocks, worked flawlessly.
    7). Only the AMA-90 and non-stamped/non-marked enblocks did this. I noticed heavy park on
    all of those enblocks, & no park on the two old G.I. ones that worked well.
    Here is what I did when I got back home, This may be important... I stripped and cleaned my Rifle, and put all those enblocks in the tumbler to remove that heavy park on them. When I was done greasing up the rifle, and putting it back together, I noticed something wierd....
    Maybe you have some suggestions here as well.... After I gently cleaned out my gas cylinder and the piston on my oprod, I noticed that even with the gas screw tightened, the gas cylinder and Front sight will jiggle a little bit. (DID I do something wrong by not removing it ?) I don't remeber even checking it before I went to the range, but shouldn't the gas cylinder and front sight be tight on the barrel ? IF SO... HOW TIGHT ? I mean, how do I know about the vent hole in the barrel, and the one in the gas cylinder being lined up, or weather or not gas leaks if it is just a little loose ?
    I hope this isn't a dumb question, I should have payed more attention to it before hand. I don't know if the gas cylinder lock untwisted during my cleaning the rifle, and turning it over, or if it was already like that. I didn't remove the gas cylinder to clean it, but I don't remember it being just a tad loose before iether. Could it being loose cause it to not strip the other rounds after ejection?
    ANY SUGGESTIONS ?? Thanks... HILLBILLY-06.
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    Legacy Member Orlando's Avatar
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    I would suspect either the gas cylinder , gas cylinder piston or the op rod screw needs replaced or a combination of the three.
    First off replace the Op Rod spring with one from Orion 7.
    The piston should measure .5260 to .5253, you can buy a .530 Pin gauge, stick it into the gas cylinder ,the farther it goes into the power stroke are of the cylinder the more worn it it.
    You rifle may function fine with these worn parts with Greek HXP as it is hotter

    Removing the gas cylinder for cleaning everytime is not recommended (unless using corrosive ammo) as it will wear the barrel splines and will result in a loose fit as on your rifle. It is possible to peen the splines on barrel to tighten fit .
    I only remove the cylinder once a year for a complete tear down, clean/lube

    A gas cylinder with slight rotation will not cause short stroking but will affect accuracy.
    Personally I have never seen a gas cylinder fit bad enough that the gas port would not line up enough to cause short stroking.

    If the gas screw was loose that would cause you issue. Also check to see that it isnt cracked.
    Do all the above I suggested, if you still have issues we can go from there but you need to illiminate the above first
    Last edited by Orlando; 04-21-2012 at 09:05 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Orlando View Post
    I would suspect either the gas cylinder , gas cylinder piston or the op rod screw needs replaced or a combination of the three.
    First off replace the Op Rod spring with one from Orion 7.
    My op rod spring is over 19 1/2" ...What is the "op rod screw"
    I understand about the HXP, it even felt hotter when I fired it. I could notice the difference, especially when it moved my lead sled out of position with each shot fired. It pushed it so far out, I had to re-position everything for each shot. The AMA-90 was milder. I don't have my caliper with me, to check the gas cylinder and piston, but when I go back to my Uncles, where my reloading stuff is, I'll get it then. (No, I haven't used any reloads with my garand yet) I don't even have a set of dies for it yet.
    Thanks for the great info and help, I will try to do these things before long, I just got so much going on at once, I can't keep caught up. Thanks again... HILLBILLY-06.

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    Legacy Member Orlando's Avatar
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    I meant Op Rod spring, fingers typing faster than my brain was thinking

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    Quote Originally Posted by Orlando View Post
    I meant Op Rod spring, fingers typing faster than my brain was thinking
    Gee, that one had me stumped. I'm glad it was a typo, and I wasn't missing a part...LOL

    Should I try to tighten that gas lock that threads onto the barrel a twist or two, to be sure its on good, or something? The gas cylinder will slightly wiggle, not much, but if I try to wiggle it it will move. I understand about the accuracy issue that can have, but will it also leak gas out if its loose, causing anything symptomatic to happen? such as anything I mentioned above, or is there a proceedure for testing the follower spring that I can use? I got plenty of empties (fired brass) and endblocks I can play with to try to be sure about tollerences/ dragg, missalignment, or torque on the enblock, as it is inserted, and manually cycled. "Only a suggestion" until I can do that other stuff you mentioned above.

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    IIRC, when the gas block is fully seated there isn't enough thread for the cyl. lock to be turned another full revolution. The way to tighten the gas cylinder is to peen the rear 3rd of the top spline. Peen it enough so it has to be tapped in place with a wood mallet or hammer and wood block. Stand the rifle muzzle up and tap it on until the full diameter of the port can just be seen then install and tighten the lock just enough for the plug to screw in. The ammo with the AMA headstamp in Danishicon. It is loaded with a 150gr BT bullet to an average MV of 2950fps, a bit hotter than U.S. M2 with 152gr FB bullet at 2740fps.

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    Thread Starter

    Smile

    WELL, I SHOT IT NOW! "It works like it's supposed to" thank goodness.... "sure was loud in this holler too... I'm sure the neighbors didn't care for it much, "But I liked the hell out of it"
    Now as soon as $$$ pemits me, "I'm off to the CMPicon south store for more ammo"
    It may be a while before I can make a real range session again, gather more target data, and just shoot my Garandicon, worry free.... HILLBILLY-06.

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    I think you may be finding problems that dont exist. Before going any further start at the begining as already suggested , the basics
    Check one thing at a time, cross of list
    You cant go jumping around or you never will find out what is causing the issue

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    GARAND UPDATE:
    I finally got some free time today, and looking at my calander, I noticed it was Saturday. Thats the one day a week that guy who knows all about and sells Garands, is actually at the store where I bought mine.
    So I called him this morning, and told him about what my rifle was doing, (short cycling) I beieved, is what it seemed like.
    He was really nice about the whole thing, and said heck, "all my stuff is guarnteed to work" just bring it down here and I'll fix it... "SO" I took it down there to let him look it over. Man that dude was great, he didn't try to blame anybody for missuse, or neglect, or nothing, he didn't even put any of the suspected parts under a microscope, (Like some dealers have done in the past) He just pulled off the stock, turned her over, and began to just pull the suspected parts off. He right away removed the Follower rod, the Operating Rod Spring, and the gas Cylinder.
    He then went and got a brand new Follower rod, Op-rod Spring, & rebuilt + refinished Gas cylinder, and stuck it all on there at no cost to me. He was Glad to do it, didn't give me any problems at all. I will say, as far as I am concerned, that puts his "customer service" up on the top shelf, far above that of other places I have been before.
    "I haven't been to the CMPicon store yet" so I don't know, but I hear they are the same way. Just outstanding all they way. Anyhow, I just wanted to say, that "Bobby" down there at the shop is "top Notch" and cares about what he sell's people. They are the Oxford Pawn and Jewelry" store over in Oxford Al, so if the racks are low on Saturday, this is another place to go try to find an M1icon garand jewel, or just another Garand for the collection.
    "Thanks Bobby"..............HILLBILLY-06.

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    Legacy Member Orlando's Avatar
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    Thats great that he took care of you but to bad he didnt diagnose which part was out of spec just so you would know.
    Have you shot it yet?

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