All numbers matching 1917 .455 Webley missing something

[Hammerhead2112]

This is my first of many posts I hope so hello to everyone and what a great site with a lot of knowledgeable people.

I purchased this at auction for $361 but I missed an important detail. The front post is completely missing. It appears it may have been milled off. I am including the link for the auction so you can see those pictures until I figure out how to add pictures.

http://www.gunauction.com/buy/11735679

I purchased this gun because I wanted a collection to pay homage to those who fought at Ypres Salient in Flanders area of Belgium. The same day I also won a 1917 SSA shtle 111* to match a 1917 Vickers bayonet I have had for 25 years.

This pistol as stated above has all matching no., still .455 (thanks to this site for letting me know what to look for), everything seems to work, no import marks, bore is in very good shape, but does appear to have been reblued in the past (maybe).

So I have several questions and keep in mind I like to shoot guns (intended purpose) not stick them into a hermetically sealed safe and touch them with gloves (not intended purpose)

1) Is this a bubba'd (excellent mill work by the way) gun or was this done for a reason and there are other examples?

2) How should I refinish it depending on the above answer. If already not original and therefor not valuable as a collector, should I eliminate the pitting and refinish? If some original mod then what should I do about the pitting? I keep my guns clean and oiled so not used to pitting.

Thanks in advance for any assistance
Dave

Information

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[Johnny Peppers]

Realistically there would be no reason for the military to remove the sights from a weapon. The finish does look like a Bubba blue, and I would imagine the front sight was removed at that time. You did good if you didn't want something to seal in the safe. Looks like a sandblast and blue would be your best bet to improve it's appearance (after you install a front sight).

[Hammerhead2112]

Is the front sight soldered on? I thought it might have been milled into the barrel and had a slot for the post since that was replaceable. If so, any idea where I might procure one? If that is all that is required to get this gun looking how it should that makes my day. I was mostly interested in the fact that the cylinder was not cut.

[jmoore]

I thought it might have been milled into the barrel and had a slot for the post since that was replaceable.

Your assessment is correct. But with a refinish involved, you should be able to rectify the situation with only the most minor of lingering visual clues. But the expense may not be minor...

[Hammerhead2112]

Ok, so how do I accomplish the addition of the front sight? Do I have several options and what would be the preferred method? How can I achieve an original finish after I get rid of the bubba blueing job?

Thanks again for all the help

[jmoore]

Adding the base will either require a donor barrel or a bit if scrap steel. In all actuality, it's probably just as simple or more so to use the random steel chunk and carve it to shape. Sweat, dovetail, or key in place. I'd lean rorward the latter as it's less apt to show a solder line.

The WWI Webleys didn't have a fine finish, but replicating it will take a good eye.

[Johnny Peppers]

Not sure if Webley used rust blue or heat blue, but with the condition of the pistol now I don't think it is worth what a proper restoration would cost. The metal work alone for a proper restoration would be very time consuming, and that was the reason I suggested a sandblast and blue.

[Hammerhead2112]

@Johnny Peppers

I agree and think that is the most economical since I have access to a sandblaster at work and already have the blue. Should I worry about the external screws that are pitted or just look at apex or numrich and see if they have replacements that are cheap (since I am not considering it a s serious collector piece although I would like to keep as much as possible original)? I have never sandblasted what I would consider tiny parts before we just normally replace hardware although I have other items I can use like gray scotchbrite pads and even white (it appears to only be 2 of the larger ones that are pitted).

@jmoore

I take back what I said about the mill job. I believe it was sanded off as the top of the barrel is dished in maybe .01"(which might help in this case). How would I key it in place (not familiar with that)? What type of steel would be best (to match the finish if I sandblast and blue)? I have access at work to materials and cnc 5 axis so I think fabrication would be easy.

[Johnny Peppers]

While the military and it contractors used sandblasting, most everyone now uses bead blasting. This should be much easier to control the amount of metal removed in the blasting process. I don't see as the type of steel would be that important as long as it was a mild steel that would take blue.