Martini Enfeld question

[Maxwell Smart]

I have a Martini Enfield Mark II, which I understand to have been converted from a Martini-Henry Mark II (The original markings on the RHS of the receiver are worn almost completely off)

Am I correct in thinking that there were two distinct sizes of operating levers for the M-H rifles (one about 9" long and the other about 6" long)?

If there were two types, what would be correct for my rifle? I am chasing a second lever to work on so I can raise the firing pin strike on my gun, and want to order the correct one.

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[Ridolpho]

Attachment 32004Mr. Smart: I'm no expert but having recently read volume 1 of the Skennerton Treatise I'm pretty sure you need the "short" lever. The "long" levers were used on the MH Mark IV which were not converted to Martini Enfields. I highly recommend the Skennerton Book and am looking hard for volumes 2 and 3 (if anyone out there has one or both for sale PM me and I'd be glad to mail a money order- looking for reading copies , not pristine collecting ones). My own ME was a surprise purchase at a recent gun show where it was priced low due to lack of reciever markings. After I got it home I was able to make out "Citadel" markings which revealed it to be a genuine british piece that had been worked over in Egypt. It is a Mark II because it has the pin stock retainer. Maxwell- fire a couple of photos onto this thread of your rifle. The photo attachment system that has been made available on this Milsurps is fantastic and extremely easy to use.

Ridolpho

[Maxwell Smart]

Thanks for that.

Some pics attached.

[Ridolpho]

Maxwell: Thanks for the photos- looks pretty nice (certainly nicer than mine!). Too bad you're having trouble with the firing pin point of impact. In Skennertons big book he includes a reference where a mechanical engineer assesses the mechanism and concludes that wear on the arms of the lever is unlikely to cause the block to not rise up to an acceptable position. They, of course, hadn't seen 110 year old examples! I did a little more checking and in another Skennerton reference (Small Arms Identification Series No. 15) he indicates that the levers used on the .303's are identical to those on the 577/450's so it doesn't appear that an incorrect lever is likely the problem. Good luck fixing it. I haven't had a chance to shoot mine yet but it's nearly spring and I'm looking forward to trying it out.

Ridolpho

[Richardwv]

This is a very common problem with the MH and you don't need a new or different lever, you just need to adjust the one you have in accordance with the official period specs. It is an easy fix I've done to numerous rifles. Note "adjustment in firing position" at this link: MH, Block striker adjustments in Gunsmithing Forum

[Maxwell Smart]

Thanks Richard

To "draw out" the length of the lever horns, do you just use a hammer to peen it out cold, or does it need to be heated up with a blow-torch to make it malleable?

[Richardwv]

I heat it with a propane torch then use an old barrel that fits the bottom curve as an anvil and use a ballpeen hammer to smartly smack the opposite sides of both horns, then quench in oil. A little (as in not really perceptible to the unaided eye) goes a long way. Check often to make sure you don't over do it.

[Maxwell Smart]

the opposite sides of both horns.

So do you actually strike the thin edges of the horns between the lines on the diagram. or hit on the wider flat side of the horns?

[Richardwv]

Strike the thin edge with a rounded head, like on the back of a ball peen hammer, while the opposing edge is supported by something round as well. Again, a little goes a long way.

[Maxwell Smart]

Well, after a 12 month delay I finally got the time to do the blacksmthing needed to adjust the height of the firing pin strike on my Martini Enfield.

Did it in small steps, have got really good in stripping and re-assembling the action now - could probably do it blindfold.

Anyway, she shoots pretty good, so thanks everyone for your help.