Tung Oil

[rocky321]

I've decided to do my stock with Tung Oil and cheese cloth. The stock is in nice shape and not all that grimy, so I think this will work for me. However, I'm not sure on the Tung oil. My wife picked me up a can of Formby's Tung Oil Finish, and after reading the directions, I'm just not sure about this stuff.

1) "Surface should be throughly clean".
Isn't that the Tung Oil's job?
2) "Allow to dry overnight. Should dry within 12 hours".
I thought you could use it right away after application?

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Bubba-7]

Sorry, I would not put it on a collector grade stock. I am a Raw linseed oil only man. If your stock has been sanded, a replacement stock, or has a rebuild stamp Tung Oil will work fine.

[Wulf]

Is this a collector grade stock? If so, stop what you are thinking of doing and do it the right way.

[rocky321]

Sorry, I would not put it on a collector grade stock. I am a Raw linseed oil only man. If your stock has been sanded, a replacement stock, or has a rebuild stamp Tung Oil will work fine.

SA stock, which I believe is a Springfield Armory replacement. But is this the correct Tung oil?

[Wulf]

If it is an SA stock, it is no big deal. i just wanted to make sure you did a collector grade the correct way.

[doncb]

Fornbys is not true tung oil,not 100%. donb in fl

[ulflyer]

I thought the Formby's stuff had varnish in it; if so, you don't want to use that. I went to a specialist wood store and paid $16 for a can of pure tung oil and tried it. Didn;'t like it at all and went back to my BLO from Lowes, cut 50/50 with mineral spirits, smoothed on very lightly by hand. I've done about 25 stocks this way. On a stripped stock I'll put about 6 coats. Might only need one or two coats on yours since you're not removing all the orig finish. Drys overnight in a warm room. Try that and I think you'll be pleased.

[rocky321]

That's what I thought.

[Dr342]

Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a varnish are great if you want a hard gloss furniture type finish. The only thing I use on my Mil-Surps is Pure Tung Oil (PTO) & Boiled Linseed oil (BLO). BLO is available in most hardware chains. I found a pint at ACE. I prefer PTO from the Real Milk paint Company. I have used it for years then finished up with Toms 1/3 Mix as the Military stock finish. Its not much and worth every penny, Links below.

Pure Tung Oil Finish - Wood Finishing - All Natural Finish - China Wood Oil - Real Milk Paint

Products

[Johnny Peppers]

Using the correct finish incorrectly doesn't accomplish anything. I believe the final appearance of the stock is much more important than what you used on the stock. After trying everything I settled on BLO/Turpentine mixed 50/50 as giving the best appearance of an original finish.
Heavily coat the stock with the first coat, let it set about 30 minutes, and then wipe everything back off with toweling. Smooth any patches of finish left after the wipe down and let it dry. From then on, just put a spot of the 50/50 mix on the wood and spread it out until it will spread no farther. Then put on another spot and continue until the stock has a thin coat of the mixture. The buildup is very slow and you get an idea of when the finish is just about to start glossing.