Applying Minwax Tung Oil Successfully???!!!!

[RogerFoxDog]

Okay Folks! I've been trying to apply Minwax Tung oil to a new Garand stock using the directions on the can with no acceptable success. The can calls for buffing the finish after about 5 to 10 minutes after application. By the time I've reached the 5 min mark, the Tung oil is like fly paper and hard to buff. Tried recoating as suggested and tried to buff again. It was a little easier this time but the finish is really streaking and hardly uniform. I've tried different waiting times from 1 min. to 10 min. with the same results. I've steel wooled the stock with 0000 steel wool in between coats as instructed on the can. If I don't buff at all I get a glossy pimp stock that just won't do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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[Danny]

It seems as if you want a Tung Oil Finish. You are using the wrong product for what you are after. You are now putting on Tung Oil Finish and getting a Tung Oil Finish Finish. You want to buy Tung Oil and put on a Tung Oil Finish. You might need to go to a specialty store to get Tung Oil. Tung Oil Finish is some kind of finish other than Oil (a varnish or other hard finish) in which they paid some dude to drink a drop of Tung Oil and fart over the day's production of Varnish or whatever the base is on the way to putting the cap on so that they can make some kind of an association with Tung Oil.

Hope this helps,

Danny

[AL in MN]

+1 on what Danny said. I've tried to use MinnWax but it never gave me the result I wanted. You can use BLO or pure Tung oil (NO tung oil FINISH which contains varnish) or Fairtrimmers Military OX. Had really good results with Fairtimmers....

[Danny]

I've seen some stocks that have been done with Tung Oil Finish that mimic an oil finish, and they look nice, but doing so is going to take some playing with the Tung Oil Finish , which is probably not as simple as using Tung Oil or Boiled linseed oil in the first place. I like modern finishes. I use them on my Long Range Garands and M14s. I just don't use them on any Rack Grade/as issued looking weapons. For that, I just use real Tung or Boiled linseed oil. and not Tung Oil Finish. The two just aren't the same product and they act differently.

Danny

[RogerFoxDog]

I appreciate what you guys have said and I understand what I really have is more akin to varnish as opposed to something like " Pure Milk Tung Oil". I'm trying to lock in the end result of using alcohol based dye. If I don't lock it in with some sort of top sealer, I end up wearing the dye on my hands and face after a day at the range. BLO will not lock in this dye! I'm just trying to find a method of toneing down the high gloss of this suedo Tung oil to give it more of a Satin finish. I may just have to steel wool it again and finish it off with Culver's paste and be done with it.

[Litt'le Lee]

use auto rubbing compound for paint,,not the one for clear coat

[doncb]

You can tone down that minwax oil finish with oooo steel wool. don in fl

[drshame]

I've always been able to get good results using MinWax Tung Oil Finishes.

Start with a clean, smooth stock. Gently rub in some Tung Oil Finish...wait about 5 minutes and rub it off.
Use a very fine steel wool to knock down any raised grain, remove any dust and let dry a while. Repeat the entire process at least 3 times.
After 3-4 coats.....adjust the final coat for the gloss you like: Either rub it down after a while or let it dry glossy. Use fine steel wool for the final sheen you're seeking or not if you want a higher gloss.
I usually steel wool the final coat to knock down too much gloss and then use a *dark* paste wax as a final coating..which usually rubs out beautifully.

[RogerFoxDog]

Thanks to everyone for your input and great ideas. Also, thanks for sharing your pics of some great looking rifles.

[mousegun]

Tried BLO but out here in the desert heat it tends to get gooey if there's any grease or cosmo in the stock. Also it doesn't fare well in humidity or warm ocean air (don't ask me how I know this).

I caught on to Minwax Tung Oil Finish from this CMP page. I think it was Gus Fisher who recommended it for rifles more apt to be used than collected. The recommended application was to "stretch" a few drops into the wood with a rag or fingertip. Continue over the whole stock, then wipe off any excess and let 'er dry overnight. I cut mine with 50% mineral spirits on the first application to assure penetration, or so I thought. YMMV! Any more than three coats is gratuitous.

It came out gorgeous! Any amount of gloss is easy to do, and it's weather/water resistant. The first stock I did had two coats of BLO on it. No problem. Sealed it right up. It's easy to refresh the finish as well. Just lightly stretch in a little with #0000 steel wool and wipe off. The grain stays smooth and the finish is even. Alcohol based stains work with it if color starts to look blotchy, and finish up is just as simple once the stain takes.

Put the "real thing" on your collectibles and Minwax the rest. Even used it on my Remington 121 walnut and 788 birch.