No32 MkI Scope questions.

[Peter Laidler]

The cradle cap screws should be staked but there is no engineering reason for it on a single shot bolt action rifle as by definition, they are taper lock! and as a rule of thumb, No4T's don't do a lot of machine gun-like fire.

Remember this Mad Crate. Those screws are like rocking horse manure. You COULD make some more but if th taper is wrong, they won't mechanically lock as they should. So, If it ain't broke, then don't fix it

[madcratebuilder]

The cradle cap screws should be staked but there is no engineering reason for it on a single shot bolt action rifle as by definition, they are taper lock! and as a rule of thumb, No4T's don't do a lot of machine gun-like fire.

Remember this Mad Crate. Those screws are like rocking horse manure. You COULD make some more but if th taper is wrong, they won't mechanically lock as they should. So, If it ain't broke, then don't fix it

I under stand about the horse pucky, I have found it necessary to clean my boots in the past.

After cleaning the crud from the screw slots they came out very nicely. I immediately noticed the taper. Much different that my clone mount. I detail cleaned the exterior of the scope, the main body does appear the be blued steel under the paint. My main concern is the cast brass part that the adjustment knobs are located on. These are the parts with the barn paint. What would be the correct finish for these parts? I assume a matt black paint. Would "guncoat" be a OK product to use? I now see the correct marking for the range numbers and the indicator V. that should be very doable during a repaint.

After reading your two part article "Phoenix Rising from the Ashes" I feel confidant about disassembling the scope.

I don't necessarily want this to look new or rebuilt. I would prefer to keep it as original finish as possible. You can see from this photo how the paint came off the turrets.

[Peter Laidler]

I'm not into originality Cratebuster but it looks as though some of the old brassware was just left to darken naturally. Others have been chemically blacked Maybe a chemical brass black could be used.

There is a hard, hot applied wax stuff we use to highlight the drum markings but reasonably, an kiddies playground wax crayon could be used.

When they came through our workshops, any notion of originality was forgotten about and they went through 'the works'. This 'works' didn't feature blueing or polishing brass etc etc. They just followed the rifle format!

[madcratebuilder]

Thank you peter. I have used the brass blackening many times with the cap and ball revolvers I work with.

I think I well remove the paint I have now and see what's under it. Thanks again.

[Roger Payne]

Thanks for the photo Rob.

ATB

P.S. Mea Culpa. I forgot your little parcel -- will attend to!

[MJ1]

It's a little rough looking but works perfect and has clear and sharp optics.

[madcratebuilder]

Thanks for the pics MJ1. I know what a new or refurbished scope looks like. Trying to find untouched originals is a little harder.

[MJ1]

I have one in better original condition but I can't find it. It's not lost I just put it some place in an anal moment.

[Badger]

After reading your two part article "Phoenix Rising from the Ashes" I feel confidant about disassembling the scope.

There's an entry in the England Section (click here) of the MKL (Milsurp Knowledge Library), showing the dimensions of the No.32 scope, including the measurements of the cross wires etc. So, if you start rebuilding, besides Peter's excellent two part article series, this may help as well.

(Click PIC to Enlarge)

1952 Instructional Pamphlet for No.4 Mk1(T) sniper rifle (click here)

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Regards,
Badger

[darwinmauser]

I'm not into originality Cratebuster but it looks as though some of the old brassware was just left to darken naturally. Others have been chemically blacked Maybe a chemical brass black could be used.

There is a hard, hot applied wax stuff we use to highlight the drum markings but reasonably, an kiddies playground wax crayon could be used.

When they came through our workshops, any notion of originality was forgotten about and they went through 'the works'. This 'works' didn't feature blueing or polishing brass etc etc. They just followed the rifle format!

This 'works' didn't feature blueing or polishing brass etc etc. They just followed the rifle format!"

Peter , From that could I assume that a coat of sunkorite (sp) found it's way onto the exterior surfaces excepting the range dials ???