Tung Oil

[imarangemaster]

That's pretty much the way I did mine, except last coat was BLO without mineral spirits. The first couple BLO/mineral spirits coats really help clean the wood surface. I had a stock (unk GI potbelly with no cartouches) that was so bad I actually "dishwashered" it. Formsby's and other stuff didn't touch it. I then started with the BLO/MS and finished with a 6th coat of BLO only and it worked great.

[rocky321]

Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a varnish are great if you want a hard gloss furniture type finish. The only thing I use on my Mil-Surps is Pure Tung Oil (PTO) & Boiled Linseed oil (BLO). BLO is available in most hardware chains. I found a pint at ACE. I prefer PTO from the Real Milk paint Company. I have used it for years then finished up with Toms 1/3 Mix as the Military stock finish. Its not much and worth every penny, Links below.

Pure Tung Oil Finish - Wood Finishing - All Natural Finish - China Wood Oil - Real Milk Paint

Products

So basically you CLEAN with the pure Tung and PRESERVE with Tom's 1/3 mix?

[Johnny Peppers]

Each piece of wood will take up the finish differently, so go for appearance rather than number of coats.

[lenb]

I had used BLO and mineral spirits mixed 50/50 with good success in the past, but on my latest project, a nice Remington M1917 stock, I took Johnny's advice and tried using turpentine instead. It's working great so far, and in fact it's one of the better projects I've done. I think the turpentine seems to give it a bit more luster after drying. I put on the third 50/50 mix coat last night and will probably do one more light coat to finish it off. It's one of the better looking stock projects I've done. (The only downside is that the mix smells horrible when you put it on, but after it dries, the turpentine odor disappears.)

Len

[Rob13]

If using linseed oil... be careful, this stuff will catch fire if you leave a rag with it on it laying around. Self combustable I believe!

[Dr342]

BLO or PTO are the only ones I use.

[ChipS]

I thought the Formby's stuff had varnish in it; if so, you don't want to use that. I went to a specialist wood store and paid $16 for a can of pure tung oil and tried it. Didn;'t like it at all and went back to my BLO from Lowes, cut 50/50 with mineral spirits, smoothed on very lightly by hand. I've done about 25 stocks this way. On a stripped stock I'll put about 6 coats. Might only need one or two coats on yours since you're not removing all the orig finish. Drys overnight in a warm room. Try that and I think you'll be pleased.

This is EXACTLY how I do mine (several) and I have never been dissapointed with the results. Patience is a factor in getting a good job. Do not apply too thick hoping to get done quick because it will just gum up and you will have to strip and start over. May not be exactly same as original finish (raw linseed) but appearance is the same and it dries faster and harder. I would not refinish a collector grade stock - only clean and treat it with boiled linseed oil, as per original U.S. military maintenance spec.

I have used Formby's Tung Oil Finish (satin and gloss) on sporter stocks and have been very pleased - silky smooth, durable and water tight. But, Formby's is NOT pure tung oil and contains a drier - will produce a very slick , commercial type finish really quick = not good for military stock. JMHO. ChipS

[Faulkner]

I've refinished over a hundred carbine and Garand stocks. I used Tung Oil a couple of times, the rest were BLO cut 50/50 with mineral spirits because it's easy to work with and gives the best original finish appearance.

[Sunray]

this the correct Tung oil?

No. You want pure tung oil. It's a finish, not a cleaner. Rub it in, using thin coats with a clean, lint free, cloth until the wood is warm to the touch and let dry for 24 hours. Repeat over 5 days or so. The more you rub in, the shinier it gets. One coat is not enough.
Cheese cloth throws lint, as I recall.