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05-20-2011 08:38 AM
# ADS
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Advisory Panel
Originally Posted by
jmoore
-ring trick works, but isn't nearly as effective on the semi-rim as with rimmed cartridges.
I just tried loading a cartridge with an O-ring, without actually firing it. The extractor cut clean through the O-ring. So this method would be heavy on O-ring consumption in my rifle. Did you remove the extractor for your experiments? Obviously I could do that, but it would mean using a brass rod to push out each fired case. Any suggestions?
Patrick
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Originally Posted by
Patrick Chadwick
I just tried loading a cartridge with an O-ring, without actually firing it. The extractor cut clean through the O-ring. So this method would be heavy on O-ring consumption in my rifle. Did you remove the extractor for your experiments? Obviously I could do that, but it would mean using a brass rod to push out each fired case. Any suggestions? Patrick
No mods to the extractor in either rifle, but I did end up just dropping them in the chamber and let the extractor hop over the puny rim. Not a practice that I would do with any Mauser 98 derivative, but didn't take hardly any extra force here.
As the primer protrusion was noticably reduced from previous sessions, it works at least somewhat.
I reckon the rings DO loose some effectiveness due to the barrel face cuts, but I ran them on the "fat" side. (Nice photo of the breech opening, Parashooter!)
Stupidly enough, I think running the charge weights higher would help form the cases properly. Primer set-back always seems the worst when loads run light. I first noticed that phenomenon when loading for an M1917 back in the early '80s. (.30-'06, obviously)
Too many dramas recently to do more in this area. Maybe soon.
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Legacy Member
To get rid of the extruded primers just jack up the pressure. It also helps to have a nice polished chamber and lubricated brass.
For a different take on this round the Type I Carcano barrel has no feature that will touch the front face of the rim. It is strictly head space on the shoulder.
Probably the best brass to use is .303 brass cut down but it takes a lot of work.
The chamber cast of one of my rifles a T38 has a .264 on the button groove diameter.
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Originally Posted by
ireload2
To get rid of the extruded primers just jack up the pressure.
Originally Posted by
jmoore
Stupidly enough, I think running the charge weights higher would help form the cases properly. Primer set-back always seems the worst when loads run light.
I believe we're on the same page here.
Originally Posted by
ireload2
The chamber cast of one of my rifles a T38 has a .264 on the button groove diameter.
I wonder why the military bullets run small? The bores don't seem to be taper cut or anything odd. (aside from the complex rifling geometry, that is! It keeps reminding me of the early Glock rifling.).
Last edited by jmoore; 06-06-2011 at 08:16 AM.
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If I remember right the T38 uses A type of Medford rifling which is like the polygonal rifling like Glock uses. Not a good choice for lead bullets and I have tried but with the right rifle the 139/140 weight bullet can be accurate. I do have a carbine that using 30 + grs. of IMR 3031 and a Hornady 140 bullet (It doesn't like Sierra bullets.) I was able to get a two inch five shot group at 200 yards. I was also using 35 Remington brass at the time and it all worked great. I don't know if I can do it again as my eyes were a lot shaper back then but I still have the carbine.
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6.5 Jap rifle on a modern rifle action.
Has anyone built a modern rifle in 6.5 Japanese round using todays actions and barrels?
What has been the results? Can the cartridge be loaded to higher velocitys if fired in a modern custom built rifle?
Thanks,
Bill
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Legacy Member
Bill, I had a fellow write me once, said he'd gotten a 6.5mm barrel for his contender chambered in 6.5 Jap. Back about the time of 9/11, I wrote Norma complaining about the ill fitting brass. I also told them that I had been making up ammo based on the 303 British headsize. Wasn't long after, the Norma website showed their 6.5 Japanese with the .303's headsize and the .303's .059 rim. 6,5 Japanese Arisaka - Norma
Others have looked for said ammo, but nobody has said they found it yet. They probably had tons of that old brass they've not yet sold! The old Norma cases began to separate upon the second firing, even though I neck sized them only before reloading. Now, I either swage down .308, or use .303 British or 30/40 to feed my Arisakas, with .303 being easier to come by. I even took out an ad in the American Rifleman selling my swaged down GI .308 around that same time. Glad I didn't get many orders, cause it was real labor intensive, and boring! I can't help but wonder how many rifles were thrown away by folks who thought they had a headspace problem, when the real problem was the thin rim and small head of the Norma cases? Incidentally, the type I Japanese rifle has a tighter chamber than the Type 38.
Last edited by andiarisaka; 08-07-2012 at 09:25 PM.
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Advisory Panel
Making 6.5x50 cases.
I've been sorting through my amm in the last day or so and I found 40 or so rounds of 6.5x50 ammo that was loaded in cases made from 7.62 x 51 Nato brass. When I made this brass I used a swadge die (that I made) and recuced the base of the case down to .456" (if my memory is right) and then run the cases through and old Herter full lenth die doing it in steps till the bolt closed on the case with no resistance. This produced a case that did not swell at the base and it fit the chamber so there was no stretching later. This is the only way I know to have a case that fits the chamber as it should. I was making and selling the swadge die and I think there is someone on this board that has a copy. With the variance in Japanese chambers you are going to have to fit each rifle seperately IF you want a perfect fit.
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