Problem with No. 4 Mk1* Trigger

[limazulu]

http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...0correctly.pdf
Top of page 4.

Now it’s time to fit the trigger guard and Screw, rear, tie, fore-end if
you have a Mk1/2 or 1/3. There’s a good chance that the rear of the
trigger guard will foul due to the height of the new wood. If that’s the
case, then simply scrape away the wood inside its seating to allow it to
seat correctly all the way to the front. The trigger guard should not
spring at the rear or front….., NO it shouldn’t! If it was meant to, it’d
be made of spring steel! Now for a little tip. The COLLAR. You
MUST have a collar and spring washer. This is what WE used to do.
Put the front trigger guard screw into the trigger guard and body
WITHOUT the washer or collar. Reverse it (that’s anti-clockwise …..)
until you hear it click over the start thread and tighten it BUT COUNT
THE TURNS UNTIL IT TIGHTENS AND LOCKS. Say, that it’s 7 ¼
turns to lock. Now do this with the collar fitted if it’s now, say 8 ½
turns, shorten the collar, a smidgin at a time, until the screw tightens up
at exactly 7 ¼ turns. That way, you KNOW that the screw is tight, the
fore-end is tight between the trigger guard and the screw and you are
not crushing the living daylights out of the fore-end. And if it feels a
little loose in a years time, then you can safely turn a few thou off the
collar.

How can it be more turns with the collar installed then without the collar?

With or without the collar I have a single stage trigger and the trigger guard lays flat so how can this be causing my lack of a two stage trigger?

Why would a closed bolt cause a loss of two stages when the open bolt doesn't?

Your Knowledge Library doesn't answer these questions.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[tbonesmith]

How can it be more turns with the collar installed then without the collar?

Because the collar hasn't yet been shortened to suit the wood, hence it needs a trim...

[limazulu]

Because the collar hasn't yet been shortened to suit the wood, hence it needs a trim...

If the collar is longer then the number of turns would be fewer. You can't turn more then the distance to the wood. In my case it was 3/4 of a turn too tall and reducing that amount did absolutely nothing.

---------- Post added at 02:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:55 PM ----------

Here's the straight answer to the quesdtioin in straight talking.....................................

IN answer to your last question............ You CAN have a double stage trigger when the bolt is open and single whan it's closed. But the double stage trigger is purely and hopelessly useless when the bolt is open because you don't FIRE the rifle when the bolt is open. So forget the red herring that you're looking at. You MUST concentrate on the CLOSED bolt scenario and you are only using the LOWER rib of the trigger against the sear. This rib is too proud and as such, the sear is beign pressed down and around this rib. Before the sear gets to the top rib, it's dropped off the face of the cocking piece. You sort out the lower rib as per the detailed instructions and you WILL correct your dodgy pull off

Thank you Peter. That answers my question.

[limazulu]

Because the collar hasn't yet been shortened to suit the wood, hence it needs a trim...

Since the collar hasn't been shortened it takes fewer turns to bottom out then more turns. What part of that don't you understand?

Read the instructions again. It says remove the collar and lock washer, then count the turns. This will be the most turns you can get. If the collar is taller you would end up with fewer turns.

In my case I bottomed at 6 3/4 turns and with the collar only 6 turns so I had to shorten the collar. In fact, with closer inspection, who ever worked on the collar didn't true it up. By truing it up I got the right number of turns.