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  1. #71
    Legacy Member HOOKED ON HISTORY's Avatar
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    You have me to thank. I have never one any popular item on e-bay without snipeing (waiting to the last second). If I would have been bidding I am sure with my luck $250 +. Very few bids is quite unusual on the bayo for the No 5 Mk 1. One less compeditor perhaps I will score soon as well. Please let me know the condition when you recieve it. Perhaps an photo with the prize in ith propper position atop your No 5?

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #72
    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    Bayonet arrived today. It appears to be a properly marked Elkington. Pommel and cross guard look good, no pitting, most of the original finish. Blade appears to have been ground or sharpened at some point, and is from what I can tell, about an 8th inch short. I thought this was the case from the photos. Grips look pretty good but there is some separation of the joint on the bottom, about an 8th inch.

    So it's been heavily used. I'm not sure I'm happy with the purchase at this point, awful lot of money, but I saw what I was getting so I'm not complaining. It'll do until I find one at a yard sale. At least it's the real deal.

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  5. #73
    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    Photos:

    I'll correct my initial report with nice old patina rather than original finish. Hard to tell if there is any finish on it or not.











    Scabbard has no markings that I can find. Could be anywhere under that paint. Should the paint come off or should it stay on?





    Has a nice brass tip on the end but the insert is steel.





    And finally, where it's supposed to be once again:




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  7. #74
    Legacy Member HOOKED ON HISTORY's Avatar
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    It' legit. Nice work. my search continues.

  8. #75
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    You have a nice original bayonet with an early scabbard. I think I am correct when I say the No5 scabbards were blued and then painted. Perhaps leave it as it is or repaint it? A nice bayonet frog can also help to preserve the scabbard.

  9. #76
    Legacy Member gew8805's Avatar
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    My vote is to leave it alone. Quite frankly, it's fine just as it is.

  10. #77
    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    I was able to get the grips off of it last night after letting it sit with some Rem Oil on the screws. As I feared, the reason for the gap in the hand guard was a build up of rust. I got that off of it and put the hand guard back on. The gap is still there but it is a uniform 1/16th of an inch rather than the tapered large gap. I could see rust in there through the gap and thought that might be the problem. Grips are heavily oil soaked and must have trapped moisture in there.

    I don't have a big issue with the paint other than it looks like it was put on by hand and I'd like to find the makers mark. There doesn't appear to be any rust forming under the paint and that's my main issue. I don't like rust much, want to control it as much as feasible.

    Any ideas of what the large three digit number is? Unit, partial serial???
    Last edited by Aragorn243; 04-26-2012 at 05:44 PM.

  11. #78
    Legacy Member gew8805's Avatar
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    Accountability number put on by the unit armorer so it could be kept track while on issue. The number was recorded as issued to a particular individual and that individual was responsible for it.

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  13. #79
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    Why don't you do what any Armourers shop would do when a grotty bayonet and scabbard was returned to the Armoury. Strip it down, reassemble with the grip nuts and bolts and catch nut and bolt (less spring) bead blast it, phosphate it, paint the grip/handle black to a point 1/2" below the crosspiece, oven bake it, assemble with new (?) grips (- or make some new ones from beech or birch). Same with the scabbard but remove the mouthpiece spring and assemble the mouthpiece. If the screw thread is stripped and you haven't got a replacement, just drill oversize and soft solder in place an insert to re-drill and tap 6BA later.

    Then you have a well used but perfectly serviceable bayonet that's just been returned to the unit from the REME workshops or Ordnance ready to give you another 40 years service. On the other hand, you could have a grotty old worn out, down at heel ex Indian Army bayonet that's shouting out misused and abused.

    The makers mark of M/78 is on the pommell!

    BDLicon with his facilities and spare parts could do that in a few moments.

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  15. #80
    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    The rebuild would make the bayonet collector purists go nuts I'm sure.

    I'm with you for the most part but I'm not planning to do anything to the bayonet other than light cleaning and rust control.

    I know where the makers mark is on the bayonet, I'm looking for one on the scabbard, if it has one. I was told some do, some don't, don't know where to look.

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