Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: No2 MK1 End Shake

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size

Threaded View

  1. #7
    Advisory Panel

    jmoore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    06-09-2023 @ 04:20 AM
    Location
    US of A
    Posts
    7,066
    Local Date
    05-11-2025
    Local Time
    01:47 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chadwick View Post
    I once read an article explaining very plausibly that a revolver needed a touch of end shake. If I remember clearly (and I hope this can be checked) the argument was on firing that the pawl will first push the cylinder as far forwards as it will go. The case will initially expand to grip the chamber walls, the primer will be pushed back, and then the cartridge base will be pushed back onto the recoil plate. Microseconds later the cylinder will be pushed back, thus shoving the case back into the chamber and recovering some end play so that the cylinder can rotate. If the cylinder has no end play whatsoever, then it cannot move back and the revolver will jam up pretty quickly as powder and lubricant residues get between the back end of the barrel and the front face of the cylinder. Thinking it through, this seems to imply that if the gap between cartridge base and recoil plate is X thousandths of an inch, then you need a similar amount of end play to make sure that the recoiling cylinder can press the cartridge back into the chamber again. It would explain why my Swissicon 1882 revolver, make with watch-like precision and just about zero end play, jams solid after one complete cycle of the cylinder - it is too precise - too closely fitted for the black powder load!
    Not that I measure end shake on much of anything besides S&W revolvers, but on these the cylinder float can be controlled by adding "O" shaped shims between the end of the yoke ("crane" to Colt types) and the cylinder ID. I will often set it to 0.002" on general purpose Smiths and 0.001" on hunting and target S&Ws if everything else is running true. I run many of these revolvers fast and dirty. No dramas to date. My old 686 .357 has had multi tens of thousands of rounds through it. End shake is still tight, but that's about the only thing!

    The usual binding drama on Smiths is when the cylinder drags against the rear face of the barrel, which the shims will cure straight away.

    As for the Enfield revolver, it never occurred to me that the forward motion of the Enfield's cylinder would be controlled by anything other than cylinder axis' rear face (which shimming would change, if so.) or the front of the cylinder sleeve which is very "beefy". But I've never had a binding drama with one, nor headspace so excessive that misfires occurred. So it's been of no concern until now! Given the low pressure of the round, binding due to cartridge set-back seems highly unlikely.

  2. Thank You to jmoore For This Useful Post:


Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts