1. It appears that you are you're enjoying our Military Surplus Collectors Forums, but haven't created an account yet. As an unregistered guest, your are unable to post and are limited to the amount of viewing time you will receive, so why not take a minute to Register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to our forums and knowledge libraries, plus the ability to post your own messages and communicate directly with other members. So, if you'd like to join our community, please CLICK HERE to Register !

    Already a member? Login at the top right corner of this page to stop seeing this message.

+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 10 of 15
Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Legacy Member Bruce McAskill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    01-17-2023 @ 09:10 PM
    Posts
    1,880
    Local Date
    04-27-2025
    Local Time
    09:14 AM
    The two biggest problems that surface with older carbines are the extractor group and the recoil spring. The extractor group quite often is forgotten when cleaning a carbine. Old grease and dirt get into the plunger and spring causing it to bind and not allow the extractor to close on a cartridge rim. The extractor can chip or break and will also creat functoning problems. These need to be checked, cleaned and replaced if need be. Get a bolt tool if you intend to take the bolt apart as you will need it.

    The recoil spring should be 10 1/4 inches long. If it's less then a new spring should be installed. Use a USGI spring and not one of the after market high speed springs as they can creat more problems then they are worth.

    It is not very often a trigger housing will be too loose to work properly but if it does then do not try to tighten the lugs on the receiver. They are hardened and can snap off. Work on the trigger housing lugs that can be spreaded apart a little bit to help tighten up the action. A loose housing will not hurt accuracy as it has nothing to do with it.

    A worn tab on a slide again does not happen too often. If the tab is a bit worn then the slide arm can be slightly and I mean slighty bent inward to take up some of the play. If the tab is very worn then the slide needs to be replaced.

    The gas system on a carbine does not need to be taken apart for cleaning so leave the castle nut and piston alone. A little bit of hoppies on the piston will work. If for some reason the piston has to be removed then get a new castle nut as most often the old one will strip coming off. Do not over tighten the nut when replacing it as the gas cylinder can crack and that means a barrel replacement.

    Didn't mean to get long winded here.
    Information
    Warning: This is a relatively older thread
    This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

  2. The Following 4 Members Say Thank You to Bruce McAskill For This Useful Post:


  3. #2
    Legacy Member bonnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Last On
    09-16-2024 @ 10:41 AM
    Posts
    91
    Local Date
    04-27-2025
    Local Time
    10:14 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce McAskill View Post
    The two biggest problems that surface with older carbines are the extractor group and the recoil spring. The extractor group quite often is forgotten when cleaning a carbine. Old grease and dirt get into the plunger and spring causing it to bind and not allow the extractor to close on a cartridge rim. The extractor can chip or break and will also creat functoning problems. These need to be checked, cleaned and replaced if need be. Get a bolt tool if you intend to take the bolt apart as you will need it.

    The recoil spring should be 10 1/4 inches long. If it's less then a new spring should be installed. Use a USGI spring and not one of the after market high speed springs as they can creat more problems then they are worth.

    It is not very often a trigger housing will be too loose to work properly but if it does then do not try to tighten the lugs on the receiver. They are hardened and can snap off. Work on the trigger housing lugs that can be spreaded apart a little bit to help tighten up the action. A loose housing will not hurt accuracy as it has nothing to do with it.

    A worn tab on a slide again does not happen too often. If the tab is a bit worn then the slide arm can be slightly and I mean slighty bent inward to take up some of the play. If the tab is very worn then the slide needs to be replaced.

    The gas system on a carbine does not need to be taken apart for cleaning so leave the castle nut and piston alone. A little bit of hoppies on the piston will work. If for some reason the piston has to be removed then get a new castle nut as most often the old one will strip coming off. Do not over tighten the nut when replacing it as the gas cylinder can crack and that means a barrel replacement.

    Didn't mean to get long winded here.
    I agree with this but will add another third biggest problem in an M1icon carbine. A dirty chamber. Most clean the bore with a 30 cal bore bush but it is to small to clean the chamber. I use 9mm brushes to clean the chamber.

  4. Thank You to bonnie For This Useful Post:


  5. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  6. #3
    Legacy Member DaveHH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    04-22-2024 @ 04:12 PM
    Location
    Northern Calif
    Posts
    1,348
    Real Name
    David Haynes
    Local Date
    04-27-2025
    Local Time
    09:14 AM

    I always grease the carbine just like the big rifle

    I look at the slide and think that a single recoil spring has to induce some side loading, so grease the slots along the side of the barrel and receiver notch on the right side. In addition, I use the white GI oil which stays where it is put and works great. A lot of those worn out slides are caused by WD40 or 3-1 oil use. Amen to what Bruce says. How can an assembled bolt be considered clean by soaking in some solvent or boiling it? The holes for the plunger are full of carbon, dirt and unburned powder. The fact that the parts are much smaller than the big rifle makes cleaning them and looking at them that much more important.

  7. Thank You to DaveHH For This Useful Post:


+ Reply to Thread

Similar Threads

  1. feeding singleshot
    By CouldBeWorse in forum Pattern 1913/1914 and M1917 Rifles
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-07-2012, 10:02 AM
  2. M1 Carbine Feeding Like Molasses or Not At All
    By scubatke in forum M1/M2 Carbine
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 08-06-2012, 08:41 PM
  3. Feeding problem.
    By albert in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-30-2010, 07:09 AM
  4. Feeding problem in M95 Spanish Mauser 7mm carbine
    By jisii in forum Mauser Rifles
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-21-2009, 06:16 PM
  5. P14 Feeding Issues
    By fatti in forum Pattern 1913/1914 and M1917 Rifles
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 08-11-2009, 12:00 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts