Smith Corona 1903A3 rifle info

[Craig Eberhardt]

Thanks Jim,

Is your bolt blued or parkerised?

Craig

Information

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[Craig Eberhardt]

Thanks Jim,

Is your bolt blued or parkerised?

Craig

Further to my last I had a good look at my bolt in the sun today. It appears that while the bolt is blued(although the blue is worn) the extractor is parkerised. I can just make out a feint letter which I think is R on the face adjacent to the bolt. It does not have an R on the ring that goes around the bolt. The letter R that I can see is in a different font to the R markings on the other bolt.

Would I be right in thinking I have a Remington extractor on my rifle? Suggestions as to where I might be able to source a Smith Corona extractor? As far as I can tell this is the only non Smith Corona part on my rifle so I am keen to fix it up if possible.

Regards,

Craig

[jbrid]

Craig - the bolt on mine is definitely blued -- almost black really. Does show wear from use - down to white metal in a few strips or areas. Also, it is marked with a 2 and a punch mark "underneath" -- on the flat, where the bolt handle joins the body of the bolt, but I didn't see any other markings on the bolt. Floor plate & trigger guard are stamped metal and were parkerized. Just noticed the front sight blade on mine is marked with an "A". The "A" is in a font with serifs. Also, I think it is just a minor variation, but the boxed FJA and crossed cannons on mine are set farther back than on your rifle -- on my rifle, they start just behind the trigger guard.

Hope this helps.
Jim

Jim

---------- Post added at 12:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:30 AM ----------

By the way, the drawing sizes A, B, C, and D you referenced are standard engineering drawing sizes. Back when engineering drawings were produced by hand with pen/pencil on a drafting table (not on a computer like they are today) the "D" size was the standard "full-size" drawing. "B" size (11 x 17) were typically reduced size prints that were much easier to work with in the field. There is also a larger "E" size drawing that was much less common than the ones you listed -- don't remember the size, but it was larger than 22 x 32 -- this was most often used for plot plans.

Jim

[Craig Eberhardt]

Craig - the bolt on mine is definitely blued -- almost black really. Does show wear from use - down to white metal in a few strips or areas. Also, it is marked with a 2 and a punch mark "underneath" -- on the flat, where the bolt handle joins the body of the bolt, but I didn't see any other markings on the bolt. Floor plate & trigger guard are stamped metal and were parkerized. Just noticed the front sight blade on mine is marked with an "A". The "A" is in a font with serifs. Also, I think it is just a minor variation, but the boxed FJA and crossed cannons on mine are set farther back than on your rifle -- on my rifle, they start just behind the trigger guard.

Hope this helps.
Jim

Hi Jim



Jim

---------- Post added at 12:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:30 AM ----------

By the way, the drawing sizes A, B, C, and D you referenced are standard engineering drawing sizes. Back when engineering drawings were produced by hand with pen/pencil on a drafting table (not on a computer like they are today) the "D" size was the standard "full-size" drawing. "B" size (11 x 17) were typically reduced size prints that were much easier to work with in the field. There is also a larger "E" size drawing that was much less common than the ones you listed -- don't remember the size, but it was larger than 22 x 32 -- this was most often used for plot plans.

Jim

Hi Jim,

Mine is also marked with an x and a 2 and punch mark underneath. Looks like it is the real deal bar the extractor.

Craig

[TDH]

Oh and about the bayonet. That was cut down from a 16" bayonet into a spear point. The were also cut down to a drop point and the scabbards were also cut down. I have 2 one each of a spear point and a drop point and the scabbards seem to be cut down differently as well. One was cut off the bottom and a metal cap was put on the end and the other seems to have been cut off the top and reattached to the piece at the top that locks the blade in and has the clips to attach it to the web belt or side of the pack.. I have seen some samples with numbers stamped on the side of the tang though none of my samples have it. My drop point does have a serial number on the side of the blade with manufacturer and the flaming bomb