How much for a Lee-Enfield?

[Count Coutu]

Hello, I'm new here, but I can already say this is a great site. Lots of information. Anyway, I am looking to buy a Lee Enfield in the future and figured that I should start researching now and broadening my knowledge. So, here are my questions.
Who made the most accurate and most durable Enfield during WWII?
How much are all matching sniper rifles now?
I have many more questions, but I'll try to research some more before I ask them.
Thanks, Matthew

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[WarPig1976]

First, I read your member intro and have to say it's nice to see a young man such as yourself interested in history. 14yrs old is a little young to worry about the price of No's matching No.4T snipers because they run into the thousands of dollars. Every marker made durable and accurate rifles but generally the British arsenals and the Savage rifles are more desirable. Good luck on your quest of knowledge and remember,, Those who don't learn from history are doomed to repeat it.

[Ridolpho]

SS Sniper: Treat yourself to a copy of the big Ian Skennerton book on the Lee Enfield and settle in for a month of good reading after which you'll probably know what rifle/rifles you want to chase down. All Lee Enfields started out durable and moderately to very accurate but they're all pretty old now and the challenge is finding well preserved, reasonably original (ie. as issued), and mechanically sound examples from any of the original factories. Use that book (and others) to find what interests you and study the great technical material available in this forum so that you can recognize a good example when one confronts you. Endless fun with these rifles!

Ridolpho

book title: "A Century of Lee-Metford & Lee-Enfield Rifles and Carbines", Ian Skennerton. Usually available on e-bay

[gsimmons]

Or go to Ian Skennerton's site and it and other books direct.

[ssj]

A no4 mk2 made 1949 to 1954 would be amongst the best made quality wise and most accurate, otherwise a Canadian post WW2 no4 mk1* rifle.

My son's 14 1/2 and shoots, ignore these oldies...nothing like knowing what you want I reckon.


---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:39 PM ----------

[/COLOR]

First, I read your member intro and have to say it's nice to see a young man such as yourself interested in history. 14yrs old is a little young to worry about the price of No's matching No.4T snipers because they run into the thousands of dollars. Every marker made durable and accurate rifles but generally the British arsenals and the Savage rifles are more desirable. Good luck on your quest of knowledge and remember,, Those who don't learn from history are doomed to repeat it.

Those that do, are doomed to watch those that dont, repeat it.



regards

[AK-103 Dude]

I checked out an No4 Mk 1 enfield at a pawn shop today. It was a sporterized version without hand guards or forestock that had the wood hacked off on the bottom stock and sanded to look more sporty. It was without any iron sights at all( only had some weird german named notch blade welded onto the barrel above the chamber). They wanted $325USD. I said politely, "No that thing is missing sights, handguard, stock and it ain't worth that to me. I wanted to trade a sks for it. They told me to give em 50USD and the sks. I said no thanks bye. Does $325USD sound like a reasonable price for a rifle without barrel bands,stock, handguard or sights? What should I look to pay for a No4 Mk1 nowadays in good condition with all it stock and hardware intact (including sights lol)? Any and all help is appreciated.

[Mikesm44]

I just got a No4 Savage with South African marks. $400. Better price than I paid for my other No4.

SS Sniper all of us have made that bad purchase at some time. I don't know if it's a completely unavoidable experience, but as everyone here has said, learn as much as you can. That is the best defense. Find a few things you want to find and stick to that first. Really get to know everything about the specific rifles you want before you start looking for them. Otherwise you're flying blind and the guy on the other side of the counter or table is always looking for the guy who will take it for top dollar.

[bigduke6]

I checked out an No4 Mk 1 enfield at a pawn shop today. It was a sporterized version without hand guards or forestock that had the wood hacked off on the bottom stock and sanded to look more sporty. It was without any iron sights at all( only had some weird german named notch blade welded onto the barrel above the chamber). They wanted $325USD. I said politely, "No that thing is missing sights, handguard, stock and it ain't worth that to me. I wanted to trade a sks for it. They told me to give em 50USD and the sks. I said no thanks bye. Does $325USD sound like a reasonable price for a rifle without barrel bands,stock, handguard or sights? What should I look to pay for a No4 Mk1 nowadays in good condition with all it stock and hardware intact (including sights lol)? Any and all help is appreciated.

No its not worth it (unless it was a No4T)

[jmoore]

Who made the most accurate and most durable Enfield during WWII? How much are all matching sniper rifles now?

They're all good. Long Branch, Maltby, Fazackerly, BSA Shirley, and Savage No4 rifles. Maltbys were built using many subcontracted parts from very early on, but by this point in their history, many No4. rifles will have parts from all over.

Then there's the No.1 Mk.III* SMLEs produced in Australia and India. Most folk prefer the Australian rifles, but I think that's mostly because the Indian versions are harder to find in good condition. They are equally as tough as the No.4 rifles, but were more costly to mass produce and have very different rear sighting systems. Which is better?...Nah, not going there!

As far as the sniper rifle's prices? Getting out of my "impulse buy" range for sure. Multi-thousand US$. But tomorrow will likely make today's price look cheap.

[CINDERS]

To SSsniper best to look for a while sometimes things fall into your lap as happens to some, you will know when you find the right one whether its a No.4 or No.1 Mk III I have both and they both have their quirks like when you put the bayonet on a No.4 and watch how that affects the trajectory of the round I have a teak stocked No.1 Mk III with a nice featured knot on the front bottom wood and it looks real grand and being a bit heavier wood soaks up a bit of recoil.
Visual stuff is not really important unless it looks like a Tiger shark has gnawed on it, look for the serials matching, screw slots not butchered, have the barrel bore scoped to look for pitting from the mercuric primers they used to use, throat erosion damaged crown on the barrel, rust marks worn bolt race, any missing bits and so on.

Be wary of persons that say it shoots really good was my grand dads in WWI always but always get them checked by a reputable gunsmith or ask the moderators here bloke as they are a holy grail of knowledge as the knowledge on this type of weapon is slowly marching away and unless those of us who really care about a battle proven weapon through wars and still going through conflicts keep the faith then it may be lost.
As one can read books till the sparrows fly backwards and the dodo lays the golden egg but the loss of technically gained experience cannot be imparted through a fax machine or a thumb drive.
I sincerely hope you find your weapon look slowly soak up the info and I am sure you will find the "Smelly"of your choice and keep the faith.

From one of my WWI books

The German skirmish line was advancing towards the British line and troops with full magazines in their 303's, when the British opened fire such was their volume of fire poured from the rifles the Germans broke and reported there was a machine gun battalion in the British line"

(Sadly no one really wins in a war as there are losses to both sides but freedom must be maintained for the future of the generations to come)