Raw Lineseed Oil

[Bubba-7]

I buy it this way, in one gallon cans. About twenty bucks a gallon. I don't think it is expensive at all.

[imarangemaster]

Not really expensive, but way more than I would ever use with just one mil-surp (a carbine).

[CrossedCannons]

The "original" treatment method involved dipping in a vat of oil, so to be true to the "original" ...

[Bubba-7]

I us it on all stocks that need oil. You can use RLO time and time again, to clean and coat. But once you use BLO, that is all you can use after that. You can put BLO over RLO but you can not but RLO over BLO. My opinion, once BLO has been put on a carbine stock, the stock is done, toast, finished, chop-chop.
I have given it away. A gallon will do a hundred stocks or make fifty new friends. That is a cheap use of twenty bucks.

[villiers]

If you need to get rid of very slight marks within the grain and smooth the surface, polishing with a small amount of fine pumice dust mixed in with the linseed oil achieves good results (but takes quite a lot of time and effort.

[jmoore]

I buy it this way, in one gallon cans. About twenty bucks a gallon. I don't think it is expensive at all.


https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...08427782-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...08427783-1.jpg

Haven't found any in several years. Last paint store I went into the fellow didn't even know of the product! Weird and/or sad.

[painter777]

Bubba,
I spent most of my youth using that Crown RLO on the wood beds of the ole trucks my Father collected.
We'd warm it up in a pot then mix 1part RLO to 1 part Turp, stir well apply heavy. Rag/mop off excess the next day.
Start on the side rails, then the top of the bed, then climb under. Man I hated that, but it held up very well.
Scratched the bed? Grab a rag full and buff more in/on.
And Mom was left wondering where her towels had gone

Memories.........

CH-P777

[INLAND44]

I wouldn't use Acetone, lacquer thinner, MEK, brake or carb cleaner on the metal - it will strip any brown patina (old oil, etc.) out of the finish and 'bleach' the gun. Any kind of mild solvent, like Clenzoil, mineral spirits or Naptha will get it as clean as it needs to be. Breakfree CLP contains Teflon which I also wouldn't put on a Parkerized vintage gun because it tends to fill the textured Parkerizing and polishes when touched. Actually Clenzoil is a pretty good CLP for this use. If I hadn't 'bleached' a carbine with brake cleaner I wouldn't know.

[USGI]

I'm in agreement with Inland44 on his post #18. I found out the same way he did. When you're done, it looks more "refurbished" than original. - Bob

[painter777]

Also agree with I-44 and USGI,
This is a case where less is more.
The 'Aggressive Solvents' are to hot on original patina. They are better used after stripping metal finishes in preparation to Re-park. I can't speak for all of the above mentioned, but MEK or Lacquer Thinner work very well for final De-greasing before dropping parts in the park tank.
For just cleaning original metal finishes, I just wipe clean with light gun oil until the rags or patches are clean of grime.
Then leave a light coat on the metal both inside and out.
Same treatment to my every season hunting rifles/shotguns and muzzle loaders.
For long term storage I add a light film of light weight grease and pack away.

Don't use BLO for stock cleaning, if you do you are 1: getting some grime off but 2: you are applying a partial hard finish.

A good friend swears by Murphy's Oil Soap, I tried it a couple times and liked it but.........
My favorite for removing surface crud on a lightly grubby stock is GOJO Original hand cleaner , the original (Not the "perfumed" or abrasive type). Applied and buffed off with a soft cotton rag. Fine soft toothbrush on tight areas. Have used this for years on old stocks and antiques without harming the underlying finish.

FWIW,
Charlie-Painter777