Home Made Tooling for your Lee Enfield.

[Peter Laidler]

The question is too vague Rasta! Are the plates shaped to the chamber portion? Is the nocks form area locked down with a locking segment?

I have severe doubts about unbreeching a barrel further forward of the nocks form - as shown in Steves pic 1 above. I am confident that a tight barrel, with a gorilla hanging onto the body wrench could twist the barrel. It is after all, only a low to medium carbon steel tube!

JM/Bruce in Oz...... Comments on No1 rifle barrel steel and torque ability/resistance

Information

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[Bruce_in_Oz]

Well, according to Specification S.A./462 P, (1938), the barrel is to be made from D.D. 8 (heat treated).

The earlier (1903) S.A. 242 for the Mk1 SMLE lists 110A Crucible or Siemens-Martin steel.

I suspect that I am missing the last couple of pages for the 1903 Spec; right about where the detailed specifications for the materials are. My copy stops at a hand-written spec. O.F No 56 B90.

Still trying to ferret out the specified analysis and mechanical properties of either.

Maybe someone with a suitable background and or "vintage" library can chime in.

The 1903 Spec (110A crucible steel) for the barrel states:

"The barrel is to be made of special mild steel, free from greys. In the forged state, each barrel is to receive a mark by which the particular batch of steel from which it has been made can be identified. The barrel must be re-marked as the metal is removed."

[jmoore]

have severe doubts about unbreeching a barrel further forward of the nocks form - as shown in Steves pic 1 above. I am confident that a tight barrel, with a gorilla hanging onto the body wrench could twist the barrel. It is after all, only a low to medium carbon steel tube!

JM/Bruce in Oz...... Comments on No1 rifle barrel steel and torque ability/resistance

Having ruined more than one by clamping in that area just behind the rear sight (described in more detail earlier on in this thread I think), it's best to stay as close to the chamber area as possible. (In most cases I was pulling rooted barrels from good action bodies, but one barrel constricted by the clamping blocks gained something of a second life as a 7,62x39 thing.)

[tbonesmith]

Hi Guys,

I have got a No5 that I am rebarrelling and some more in the mail, and I needed a tool to allow me to easily and without damage remove the flash hider. I have seen Peter Laidler's post about doing so on a shop press, but I don't have one and can't fit one, so I made this little fella...

As you can see it clamps around the barrel with a bit of clearance, behind the flash hider and bolts to the piece in front, which is threaded in the middle for an M10 bolt. This bolt is turned down at the end and a maximum OD plug accepts the end of this bolt and bears on the face of the barrel. In this instance it chewed up the muzzle a bit, so I'll try to improve that, however in this case the barrel was totally stuffed to start with, hence the rebarrel.

It works happily in the mill vice, which supports both blocks nicely. Anyway I'm pretty happy with my new tool and no doubt it will do some work.

[tbonesmith]

Hi Guys,

There's nothing I hate more than forseseeing a problem occuring, doing nothing about it and then walking into the problem, like an idiot. I have a couple of Lithgow HT's here for some work, and occasionally I get a P14 sniper. In order to feel comfortable adjusting them for windage without risk to the ocular lens I have had this tool in mind for a while, as there is no way it can slip and contact the lens (touch wood!).

Another benefit is than being hollow I can watch the grat move as I make the adjustment.