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Legacy Member
Dont know if i should of posted this...but reaally trying hard to get mine close. I know its impossible and wont get there, but i want to get it close, at least the Stock. I already got the correct front sight and a few other parts, but oh well.[/QUOTE]
What is the mark (if any) on your front sight? I would not want to remove a front sight if it all possible.
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10-15-2014 09:20 PM
# ADS
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Contributing Member
The Sight has an N and the one now has, well i dont know but can't figure it out, this a friend gave me one. I already change out the recoil plate that had a W on it, and the ones i had one has a DI, for this Inland,
Frank
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Show us a good picture of your front sight, someone here will be able to figure out the marking. Does it look like a Z? - Bob
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Legacy Member
Yeah, just post us a couple of pictures of the front sight from different angles. Like I posted above, I dislike the idea of taking the front sight off f these guns to "make it right." Besides, the sight on your Inland could be right going by the serial number you seem to have. I know that Inland was getting ready to change over to the "r" sights (Rudy Furnace) about the time your carbine was made.
As far as the N being a Z, I thought they were all Niedner sights with a letter orientation issue.
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Contributing Member
But theres no Numbers and i heard the samething it could of been another number, so im going after that also. This one lokoks like its never been touch, but i have a diagram i posted, it checked out okay.
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Originally Posted by
deldriver
As far as the N being a Z, I thought they were all Niedner sights with a letter orientation issue.
Notice that I said, "Does it look like a Z"? - Bob
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Legacy Member
Typically we don't swap out recoil plates when we probably don't know how to hang a carbine in the action in the first place. Its more important for it to hang right than it is to be 'correct'. Here's how you do it; put the action into the stock by hanging the receiver tang under the recoil plate lip. Recoil plate to be firmly attached, not loose. Action at this time should be hanging high in the stock, barrel well above barrel channel. Smack the buttplate of the stock to 'settle' the action; it will go lower and lower until the barrel settles just barely above the wood in the channel at the same time as the whole assembly makes a different sound on the last strike. At this point you should be able to put the hand guard on and slide the barrel band into position without pushing down the barrel. This is a 'text book' assembly that you probably won't find on one carbine out of a thousand today. If the barrel ends up too high or if it falls into the barrel channel right away, the recoil plate and receiver tang need to be fitted to each other. You never want to force the barrel down into position so the band can be installed. The band barrel clamp will hold a 'loose' fit barrel up off the wood, but the action will move around when shooting. Its much better when everything is naturally in the right place.
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Thank You to INLAND44 For This Useful Post:
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Contributing Member
When i changed out the R P i installed the barrel with the receiver loose before i even began to to tighten and i was jerking down the barrel while it was hanging on top, then i saw that the barrel was barely lying down in the the stock channel then I tight slowly to kepp the angle of the action and barrel even, cause. Mt first attemp i tighten the action part first and saw that it was not level, so i redid it but didnt smack the buttplate lk, e you said but this time it laid down levall and it sat in the stock even then held down without force and kt laid down and i slowly tighten recoil plate and this time the screw did not protrude ouside nut it sat in there like it did with the W Recoil Plate. It tighten fine and it was level and the screw stayed right where it was with the other recokl plate, Thanks
Frank
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Legacy Member
The front sight looks like a fabricated sight
I'm not up on who made fabricated front sights (SA? RIA?) if at all during the war.
It is probably too late now but when you remove the original recoil plate, it will leave a fingerprint in the stock if it was the original plate. The machining marks etch right into the wood.
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Originally Posted by
DaveHH
It is probably too late now but when you remove the original recoil plate, it will leave a fingerprint in the stock if it was the original plate. The machining marks etch right into the wood.
Good tip here.
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