Yeah undoubtedly I have, though if nothing else that venerable little H&H book impressed upon me the importance of not fluffing up the collimation process.
If in part that involves rolling up my sleaves to ensure I'm building with the best possible componentry so be it
The turning of the spigot as a seperate insert, certainly alleviates the need for a shell mill and I'd suggest offers a higher level of control over the O.D. rather than just plunging and accepting the resulting spigot (whether that still be within tolerance or not). The concerning thing about a shell mill may be the potential for it to wander whilst plunging, given it would be fairly heavily engaged on one side. - will ponder that one a little longer.
Peter do you happen to recall how well the repaired spigots faired when returned back into service i.e did they fail with a higher incidence after they'd been repaired the once?
Also you mention in the book that some front pads would occasionally work loose over time as recoil took its toll (as these don't have the additional assistance of the 1/4"bsf thumbscrew passing directly through into the action body as per the rear pad).
As I've got the opportunity to do things from scratch, would you consider the dowelled bush method of securing the front body pad a worth while thing to try?
JMoore, I've got some silver steel of the right size and a tempering oven etc so making a shell mill isn't out of the question - and your right the outside diameter isn't critical +/-.
Just have to make sure to make sure it behaves and the ID cuts a resulting spigot within that tight .369-.370" tolerance band @ .120" deep.
Also spotted a few dimensional errors with the freshened up drawings in the Knowledge Library, so will submit a few corrections once I've finished working through it all.
Thanks for all the comments, will keep people updated on the progress!