No1Mk3 SMLE full restoration - from scratch

[Seaspriter]

When penetrating oil doesn't do the trick, I've resorted to the Electrolysis Method with great success.
Electrolysis is the least destructive and most thorough method available to remove rust, removing no base metal. It does not require grinders, wire wheels, or acids.
Its simple, using a 2 amp battery charger with an ammeter (which tells you you've got a good connection), a plastic bucket, a piece of steel or iron, and baking soda or washing soda (in the laundry section of the grocery store). Use about a box to each gallon of water (the concentration is not critical).

Put the rusted part in a solution of baking soda. Connect the red (positive) lead of the charger to a piece of steel or iron (with a couple of square inches of surface area), and the black (negative) lead to the rusted part.

The time it takes to turn the rust into a black oxide will vary depending upon the depth of the rust and the concentration of the baking soda. Once the rust turns black (and the solution is rusty), use a Scotch pad or soft wire brush to remove the remaining oxide. The metal that is not rusty will remain untouched. Then treat with paint, parkerize, or bluing.

[Vigilant]

So, ive stripped it down and in the process of finishing the rust stripping, only issue is, with in 10mins the bare metal starts to rust again. At the moment ive covered the metal parts in some oil i have in the workshop until i get a more substantial long term seal on it.

Do any of you guys have a preference when it comes to sealing this metal? I have read everything from just oiling it every now and then to powder coating. I don't want to oil as that will attract dust and dirt, while others will chip and such.
Is there a way to seal the metal to how it was originally?

[Seaspriter]

While most metal won't rust in 10 minutes, perhaps there is still some salt or other chemical left on the metal.

I've used three different solutions, other than oil:
-1) Rust Converter: This is not rust not remover. It works by chemically reacting with the oxidized iron and producing a black paint-like surface. Rust converters are found in automotive stores -- great for old cars.
-2) Rust Prevention Paint: Such as Rustoleum that has a high oil-base that bonds any remaining rust into the paint.
-3) Bluing: This is a different chemical process that creates a stable version of ferric oxide that actually becomes a protective coat.

Of course, you can also Parkerize the finish, but this may be too complex for a gun in this condition.

[browningautorifle]

powder coating

I don't think you want to powder coat this. You won't be able to re assemble it as the tolerances will be out of whack. If you bead blast it for bluing it won't rust so quick, certainly not in 10 minutes. I'd just oil after bead blast and then you boil it to remover oil before bluing anyways. Powder coat isn't the way to go here. Not for guns.

[Aragorn243]

I don't think there's any there. There's hard red rust and finer dry red rust...but I don't believe there's any blue left. I'd love to have it in hand to see for sure though. Still think it just need a complete glass bead to clean it.

Yeah, you're right. I was looking at the picture of the socket and seeing black but enlarged it and see that it's just black rust.

[Vigilant]

Just thought I would give you guys an update,

Whole rifle is now rust free.
Putting the final couple of coats of linseed oil with gum turps and Alkanet root mixed in.

Last stage is to seal the metal (will probably be using Cerakote), only issue is I cant free the barrel from the receiver. I would assume this is a must when getting it properly sealed?

The other is, there is a screw holding in the sear that I cant get un-done. Everything around it is rust free and there doesn't appear to be any weakness or degradation, it just wont budge, this particular screw is quite soft so is prone to stripping, ill take it to my local gun smith and see what he says - can get it out, but I would also assume this must come apart if sealing? I'll provide pics once i get my camera today / tomorrow.

[CINDERS]

If you are trying to remove the barrel from the receiver I suggest you ensure you have the right tools and have a spare bolt in the race to stop the action twisting as from what the persons here have said the Lee action is notoriously weak when longitudinal force is applied without the correct tools any of the armourer's here will advise you to be careful how you do it. If I am incorrect in this advice I am sure I will be smacked for it just trying to save you some grief.

[Seaspriter]

there is a screw holding in the sear that I cant get un-done. Everything around it is rust free .... it just wont budge, this particular screw

One old trick I learned from restoring old cars is to heat the metal surrounding the screw (not the screw itself) with a fine-tipped torch (don't heat to red hot!). The idea is to capitalize on the expansion of the metal around the screw which breaks the seal between screw and surrounding metal. Work the screw both "in" a little and "out" a little to see if it breaks loose.

[flying pig]

To add to Seaspriter's comment, a trick a gifted machinist taught me was to heat the surrounding metal as suggested, but then drip candle wax on it. It should be hot enough for the wax to slightly boil. The wax will penetrate better than any oil and super lubricate. We did this once with a stuck broken ground engaging ripper tip keeper pin on a dozer. A 100 ton press wouldn't push it. Heated it, did the wax trick, walked away for an hour and smacked it out with a 4lb hammer and punch. I've even used this trick for dissimilar metals with seized fasteners like steel bolts stuck in aluminum and it works beautifully.

[Vigilant]

Hey guys its me again,

Bit of an update, she is pretty much complete, barrel just needs a good clean and a bolt and she should b good to go That screw I was last talking about apparently doesn't come out, my gunsmith said when these rifles were made they were set in place (I forgot the exact word of it).

Below is a pic of the rifle (safety is now fitted)

Just need to know where I can source a good bolt for the No1Mk3 in Australia?