Best way to glue slightly cracked M1 Cargine stock?

[Peter Laidler]

I wonder if I might be so bold as to slightly disagree with Maryin 08's method of dealing with his crack - if you'll excuse the choice of phraseology! For this reason. By drilling down through the length of the crack Martin has immediately weakened it by removing material from the critical area. I appreciate that he's now going to fill the hole with a dowel and glue but however good a wood patch is, it ain't not the same wood and in doing so, it ain't doing what really NEEDS to be done. That is pull the two pieces of wood, separated by the crack, together.

What I would suggest doing is to do exactly what we did on the Thompson butt and the No1 and 4 rifle fore-ends which split in a similar way. However, I'd suggest doing it in a far tidier and neater way and in doing so, you'll eliminate the need to drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stress relieve it. So;
Without forcing things, spread the crack as far as you can possibly do so and squeeze as much aero spec wood adhesive into the crack as you can. A good way of getting a LOT of penetration is to blow the adhesive down (or up) into the crack using an air line. You'll be surprised just how much you can get in. Now cramp the parts together and leave for 24 hours before you do anything else. You'll see why in a minute..............

After 24 yours, remove the cramps. You will now need to reinforce this joint because without putting too fine a point on it, as things stand it is simply a side-on butt joint waiting to split again, JUST AS IT DID IN THE FIRST PLACE!. Now you drill 2x 5mm 3/16 or so holes transversely across the crack close to the centre line of the affected area. Because we have already glued and clamped the crack, there is no chance of wood chippings from the drilling process getting inbetween the crack and spoiling the perfect mechanical fit. If you want to be really clever you can now taper these holes using a taper reamer.

By hand or machine, turn up a couple of OAK taper plugs that are a good fit in the holes. Glue the holes and plugs and press in.......... Now knock the plugs into place using a wood mallet. Don't knock the shXX out of them....., just knock them until you hear the distinct change in tone as they tell you that they're xxxxing tight. Leave for a further 24 hours until you make good, stain to suit, then linseed/finish to suit. Leave for a further 24 years before re-inspecting. The butt or fore-end will still be intact