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    Peter Laidler's Avatar
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    Strange those zeroing instructions Kev....... Because the MPI must ALWAYS be 1" to the right of the PoA and it makes no mention of this. If the MPI is at the PoA at, say 100 yards (see info in thread 5) then that is the crossover point of the bullets as they cross the line of sight. The accumulative error will increase greatly as the range increases. I would suggest that the 1972 EMER is the one I'd follow. In short, the MPI MUST always be 1" to the right of the PoA

    I realise that this doesn't answer the Q re height of sights but the adjustment is detailed in thread 2. And that is using NATO MK7 ball
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    Strange those zeroing instructions Kev....... Because the MPI must ALWAYS be 1" to the right of the PoA and it makes no mention of this. If the MPI is at the PoA at, say 100 yards (see info in thread 5) then that is the crossover point of the bullets as they cross the line of sight. The accumulative error will increase greatly as the range increases. I would suggest that the 1972 EMER is the one I'd follow. In short, the MPI MUST always be 1" to the right of the PoA

    I realise that this doesn't answer the Q re height of sights but the adjustment is detailed in thread 2. And that is using NATO MK7 ball
    I only ever shoot at a range that has a 100 yard line. I set my poi and poa to be the same at 100 yards because I only ever shoot at that distance. I bought a spare blade and had to grind most of the right side of the block off to get it to drift far enough over. The sight picture is a bit weird but it works for me

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    Legacy Member ActionYobbo's Avatar
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    I always set mine dead on at 400 yards for a 6 0'clock hold on a 6" circle. I use the dot the I method and once I have the sights regulated for 400 the other ranges seem to work. funny thing is my first bren was dead on at 400 from day 1 but me new one is way low but windage is close with the front sight centered
    1ATSR 177AD & 4/3 RNSWR

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