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Bore Cleaners & Type 4 Trigger Housings - Oops
So recently I shot my M1
Carbine in a match, and afterwards began load development for it. I'm quite a fan of Wipe-Out foaming bore cleaner, and am well aware of what it does to brass and copper after accidentally dropping some on a spent case and letting it sit.
So after shooting a fair amount of rounds through it in a match, and wishing to get it really clean before working on hand loads, I went to shoot some in the barrel, which didn't go as planned as I was about out so rather than foaming it just shot a nice wet stream down the bore, soaking and go right through the paper towel I had stuffed in the chamber and closed the bolt on. Wiped the mess up, let it do it's thing in the bore and thought nothing of it.
So when shooting it today I noticed my mag release was a bit sticky and I was having a heck of a time getting magazines in and out. When I got home from the range and was cleaning it, I took it down to see what was up.
Unfortunately, in a horrible moment of non-thinking I forgot that a type-IV trigger housing is braised together with copper. A remover like wipe out doesn't discriminate, and had run onto and in my trigger housing. Now not only had the copper brazing turned an ugly black/green, it had also formed a gummy residue.
At this point it's apart and being cleaned. It really only affected one side of the exterior, but the previously clean braze is now tarnished and ugly. In addition it was quite difficult to clean as the reside is sticky and persistent, though it doesn't appear to have actually eaten it too badly, if at all.
So while I'm sure experienced shooters of these guns think about that, I didn't think and paid the price. It's not something you normally think about on a gun but I felt it was worth posting as a reminder or precaution for anyone else thinking of using a heavy duty bore cleaner, as a spill can wind up doing a nice job on copper in places other than your bore.
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06-28-2016 08:05 PM
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Wash it off with soap and water. It didn't hurt anything. Use brass black if you want to dull the braze.
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Especially since I started on the original Culver forum. That had to be about 1998.
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Okay, I'll offer some professional advise. Since working for Pac-Nor Precision Barreling I have learned so much about bore cleaning. Being in law enforcement and armory sergeant I thought I knew something about cleaning a bore. Boy was I ever wrong!!!
You all know what Kroil is, right? Okay
You all know what 600 grit aluminum oxide powder is, right?
Mix the two and holy cow!!!
The aluminum oxide powder will not, can not damage your steel barrels. Your barrels will shine like a new dime after using this mixture 
Billy's tech tip for the day 
Bonus tip
You have a .30 caliber bore, use a .33 caliber brush. Always step up to the next size caliber and always use brass brushes. Never (NEVER) use a nylon brush.
Last edited by Bill Hollinger; 07-07-2016 at 09:10 PM.
Bill Hollinger
"We're surrounded, that simplifies our problem!"
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The only thing you have to be aware of when cleaning a brazed trigger housing is to not use anything like Phosphoric Acid which will 'bleach' out the Parkerizing on the steel parts. What you did didn't permanently damage the braze. There are several ways of cleaning the residues off the braze without harming it or the adjacent finishes. It depends on what the 'gummy' build-up is. Probably hot soapy water and a toothbrush would do it.
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Especially since I started on the original Culver forum. That had to be about 1998.
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I would only add that some copper fouling in a barrel isn't necessarily a bad thing. In fact, I would go for months, many months with my rifle barrels and they shot just the same. On a pitted barrel, the fouling actually helps smooth it out. Point being, these 30 cal barrels just don't need to be cleaned to that extent to shoot well. Some match rifles need to be cleaned between shots, some once a year. with these 30 calibers, it just isn't that important to get all excited about it. A hoppies soaked patch followed by a couple of clean ones and done.
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The last thing I would use as a "cleaner" is a mixture of Aluminum Oxide and Kroil. Aluminum Oxide is an "Abrasive" we use to "Hone" cylinders and bores. All machinist know this, and use it, as an abrasive cutting compound, continued use of this WILL make your bore bright..........at the expense of making your bore bigger! FWIW
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I completely forgot about this post after the initial reply, oops!
A brush and some soapy water did clean it up, but it took awhile to get it out of some of the nooks and crannies seems to look okay now. Wouldn't advocate getting careless with it again though. I am glad I took the time to clean it well, though not as bad as my Mauser. Don't plan to use this stuff on a regular basis as I do agree they some shoot better once they get some copper build up but I feel it certainly helped on my nastiest rifles that had probably gone decades without a serious cleaning. Made no real difference with the Carbine that I could discern though.
Isn't aluminum oxide powder what is in some specific bore pastes/compounds for extreme clean up, like in the case of rust or other damage? It's what's in lapping compound as well IIRC. I'd imagine the key there is how much you mix in... honestly my 1917 has a very rough bore but it shoots so well I plan to leave it alone though the idea of some kind of compound or paste did cross my mind at one point.
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Originally Posted by
gsp45
The last thing I would use as a "cleaner" is a mixture of Aluminum Oxide and Kroil. Aluminum Oxide is an "Abrasive" we use to "Hone" cylinders and bores. All machinist know this, and use it, as an abrasive cutting compound, continued use of this WILL make your bore bright..........at the expense of making your bore bigger! FWIW
Sir, with all due respect you are incorrect. Aluminum oxide will not damage in any way shape or form your steel barrel.
Bill Hollinger
"We're surrounded, that simplifies our problem!"
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Originally Posted by
DaveHH
I would only add that some copper fouling in a barrel isn't necessarily a bad thing. In fact, I would go for months, many months with my rifle barrels and they shot just the same. On a pitted barrel, the fouling actually helps smooth it out. Point being, these 30 cal barrels just don't need to be cleaned to that extent to shoot well. Some match rifles need to be cleaned between shots, some once a year. with these 30 calibers, it just isn't that important to get all excited about it. A hoppies soaked patch followed by a couple of clean ones and done.
Dave, albeit this is correct for the most part, corrosive fouling trapped under the copper fouling will do nothing but eat on the steel of the barrel. Cleaning the barrel completely is a must.
Fellas, I only offer this information because since working in a custom barrel shop and talking to the owner about barrel care I thought I would pass that info on to my milsurps family.
Bill Hollinger
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Everybody knows JB bore paste. The abrasive in JB is Garnet.
When I worked at the Sunoco refinery we would cut huge holes in the sides of 1 million gallon gasoline/crude oil tanks for maintenance access. Couldn't use torches for obvious reasons. We used high pressure water @ 40 thousand psi. The water didn't do the cutting, the Garnet mixed in at the cutting face did.
Same abrasive, different application.
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