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  1. #19
    Legacy Member Bruce_in_Oz's Avatar
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    As for a scope mounting system:

    A good start is a simple section of 2" x 2" mild-steel angle, bolted to the left-hand side of the receiver / body.

    The top area is trimmed to a width to ensure ejection clearance. (More on that issue later). Then a "rail" or pads of your choosing are obtained.

    The "vertical" part of the angle is set to clear the woodwork and then goes for drilling and counter-sinking. At least THREE, preferably four, holes need to be drilled for the attachment of the "mount" The steel in some of these little beauties is often "tough"; but not glass -hard like a P-14 body. You will need good, SHARP taps and a good cutting fluid. Thread spec is your choice. This may be determined by what sort of grade 6 or better CS cap-screws you can obtain. The truly hard-core will also whack in a couple of high-grade tapered pins to stop the mount "floating" on the screws.

    That sounds like a lot of fiddling around on a "cheap" rifle, but it works. One final consideration is the ejection angle. A "shooting buddy" did a similar job and was somewhat distraught at the effect of ejected STEEL cases striking the objective bell of his scope. His solution was to weld an "extension shield" onto the front of the angle-steel mount.

    Or, you can skip all of that and just fit one of those very lightweight "red-dot" reflex sight to the standard rear-sight base with a suitable "interface".

    If you are bouncing about in the farm 4WD, culling feral pigs, thousands of dollars worth of exotic AR or similar, is just being excessively "Gucci". A 124gn SP from a $400 rig kills them just as dead.

    A removable cheek-piece, a la the No4T style, also helps with the ergonomics of the set-up.

    Experimental "gun-plumbing", on the cheap.
    Last edited by Bruce_in_Oz; 06-06-2017 at 07:12 PM.

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