Proper Way To Retract The Carbine Bolt

[USGI]

I've read that before about the (3) cleanings with hot soapy water, and just figured that it might be something that was carried over from TB's covering other rifles that used corrosive ammo. Maybe it was recommended procedure for the others, and wouldn't hurt anything on the carbine. I don't have TB's for anything other than the carbine, so that's just a guess. My take on the "palm up" thing goes along with Dave HH's post in the other thread. If you have a FTF, you don't want to risk having the handle catch your thumb if the round goes off. I charge mine with my index finger too, but believe my thumb would still be "in the way" if the bolt suddenly flew back. I've only had one FTF (Wolf) and waited at least 30 seconds before doing anything. Next time I have one, I'm going to go with "palm up." My brother had a FTF with some Tula, and there was a bunch of smoke and fizzling. We both thought WTH, and he waited until it went quiet before pulling the bolt back. We found the cartridge had the primer installed edgewise! Still went off though, just had all the smoke and gas come out around the bolt face - the bullet was still firmly in place. - Bob

Information

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[DaveHH]

There are a lot of discrepancies or shall we say, bum information in the manual. It says that the piston and nut should be removed as part of the cleaning process. The cleaning is discussed as above, and not needed. It also says that all muzzle worn carbines are to be counterbored to get to good rifling. How many are? 2% maybe? It also says that every carbine with any visual obstruction to reading the serial# has to have the number duplicated at the front of the receiver. how many really are? 10% maybe? Also the safety has to be changed to the rotary type yet there are thousands of late ones that skipped that part. They'll have a type 3 band and type 2-3 sight but the push safety is still in place.