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Thread: Eddystone M1917 Stock Warp Issue

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  1. #1
    Legacy Member Sunray's Avatar
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    "...hog out some wood..." Sand with no porkers involved. Best done with layout blue to find where the stock is high, then sand to relieve the spot.
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    Legacy Member Hcompton79's Avatar
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    I should add that I have been taking this gun apart over a series of several months, adding raw linseed oilicon to the inside and outside of the stock. Over this time I have seen no change in the bend in the stock, which is bending down and to the left, away from the barrel. If it was bending upward, a small amount of wood removal could be done.

    In this case, I think the best option is going to be attempting the hot linseed oilicon method, however seeing as the barrel channel is thinner it may be easier to try a heat gun first before resorting to the torch.

    I'll post my results after trying this later this week.

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    Legacy Member Ridolpho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hcompton79 View Post
    I should add that I have been taking this gun apart over a series of several months, adding raw linseed oilicon to the inside and outside of the stock. Over this time I have seen no change in the bend in the stock, which is bending down and to the left, away from the barrel. If it was bending upward, a small amount of wood removal could be done.

    In this case, I think the best option is going to be attempting the hot linseed oilicon method, however seeing as the barrel channel is thinner it may be easier to try a heat gun first before resorting to the torch.

    I'll post my results after trying this later this week.
    Be careful- you have to get it hot throughout and the oil-soaked cloth wrapped right around is a good way to do it. If it isn't hot enough on all sides you may crack it. You also must bend it a bit past the desired shape to allow for a bit of elastic springback while it cools and sets in the new shape. Good luck with it!

    Ridolpho

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    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ridolpho View Post
    may crack it
    Incidentally, I'm running a 10% discount on crack repair this week only, "compound cracks excluded".

    Unless otherwise specified, product prices already reflect discounts. no rain checks are available. Not valid on prior purchases, taxes or shipping and processing charges. Consumer must pay applicable sales tax. Offer may not be combined with any other sale, promotion, discount, code, coupon and/or offer. Promotions have no cash value. Offer cannot be sold or otherwise bartered. Void where prohibited, taxed or otherwise restricted. Returns of any portion of the purchase will require equal forfeiture of offer or amount equal to offer. Jeff's Stock Shop LLC has the right to end or modify any promotion at any time. Other restrictions may apply. Offers only apply to the United Statesicon unless otherwise noted.



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    Legacy Member Hcompton79's Avatar
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    Well, today was the day. I went ahead and strapped the stock down on my bench and wrapped an old towel around the forend. I tied it on with cotton string and made sure it was thoroughly soaked with raw linseed oilicon. I tried heating it with my hat gun and found that that wasn't cutting it, after about 15min, I could still touch the oiled cloth. So out came the torch and I carefully heated it until it was smoking and very hot.

    I applied force and felt it bending, and then hung a 30lb weight on the end of the forend and stripped off the oiled cloth and let it cool for a couple of hours. After I came back I checked it against the action again and unfortunately, no difference.

    I guess at this point I can resign to live with it, or I can basically do a duffel cut under the rear barrel band and reattach with epoxy and threaded rod at a slightly different angle so that it has proper bearing at the muzzle.

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    Legacy Member Ridolpho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hcompton79 View Post
    Well, today was the day. I went ahead and strapped the stock down on my bench and wrapped an old towel around the forend. I tied it on with cotton string and made sure it was thoroughly soaked with raw linseed oilicon. I tried heating it with my hat gun and found that that wasn't cutting it, after about 15min, I could still touch the oiled cloth. So out came the torch and I carefully heated it until it was smoking and very hot.

    I applied force and felt it bending, and then hung a 30lb weight on the end of the forend and stripped off the oiled cloth and let it cool for a couple of hours. After I came back I checked it against the action again and unfortunately, no difference.

    I guess at this point I can resign to live with it, or I can basically do a duffel cut under the rear barrel band and reattach with epoxy and threaded rod at a slightly different angle so that it has proper bearing at the muzzle.
    That's too bad it didn't work. I know on the two I've had success with I had to go through many lengthy burn/heat cycles to get the bend I needed. Even using the torch as the main heat source I would say I continued with the burning/ boiling of the oil for well over one-half hour (with several pauses for new oil) before attempting the bend. In hindsight I wish I had practiced with an old junk forend to really get a feel for the heat required for a permanent bend. Yesterday I pulled the No.4 that I bent 3 years ago and was happy to see it has remained true with the barrel dead center and the correct up-pressure. The technique can work.

    Ridolpho

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    Legacy Member oldfoneguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunray View Post
    "...hog out some wood..." Sand with no porkers involved. Best done with layout blue to find where the stock is high, then sand to relieve the spot.
    Excuse the heck out of me for using local slang instead of gunsmith jargon. Shame on me for trying to help. I promise to never do something so foolish again.

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