another no4 mki* refurb project

[ssgross]

For posterity - the very large flathead bit that comes with the wheeler torque wrench fits good-n-tight. So my BFS consists of this bit in a 12" screwdriver extension, placed in a 1/4" socket and then in a 3/8" ratchet. .
I tested the fit of the butt in the now cleaned receiver and large bolt. It seems like I can pull it tight with little effort now that everything is clean.
After cleaning the butt, I noticed a hairline crack on its tenon. Here is a pic. It goes all the way to the base of the tenon.
Attachment 105095
Look's like I'll be fitting a new butt. Thanks for the reference - I have read and re-read Peter's article whilst considering my options. A bit sad at losing Doug.
On a more positive note, the finish was mostly gone on the back of the receiver after scrubbing rust off, so I cold blue'd it with oxpho. I didn't strip what was left of the old finish off. After a thorough degreasing, it blended in very well. I'll do the rest of the receiver similarly.
For comparison to above.
Attachment 105094

[browningautorifle]

I cold blue'd it with oxpho.

Yep, looks pretty good now...

[ssgross]

so you think that crack in the butt is bad enough that I should fit a new one?

[browningautorifle]

so you think

If you mean me...no I don't. If it fits put it back on.

[22SqnRAE]

so you think that crack in the butt is bad enough that I should fit a new one?

SSG - that little blemish is but a mere scratch ( somewhat like the Black Knight facing off the determined King Arthur... The passing of Terry Jones is channeling here..)

Clean the timber internally and externally around crack, and force in some waterproof PVA glue. The real good stuff that real cabinet makers use, not the cheap stuff. Clamp firmly and evenly, allow to dry then finish off flush with surrounding surface.

As Bruce suggests, go back and have a look at Mr Laidler's fine article on fitting Lee Enfield butts. A couple of pieces of buff or brown A4 paper would come in handy in this process, if you need the socket filled out for a firm fit.

Much better to maintain the original fitted butt than play with a new one. You've then preserved another rifle, which is a fantastic outcome.

Good PVA glue is stronger in bond than the surrounding timber fibres, so no need to go to epoxy, despite the belief that it's superior in service. It really isn't, as the timber is the weak component in the joint.

[ssgross]

I let the stock soak in a tin foil boat while I worked on everything else. I stock was truly disgusting and I was bummed out whether or not it would come clean. It must have certainly seen some wet. All the stock furniture was very well rusted.
The rear band was not salvageable. I got a new one for 5 bucks, although its square sided and the original was rounded.
The front larger band came clean on the brass wire wheel with slight pitting that match up with the dings. The handgaurd clips weren'tt too bad, but the edges (as can be seen in my pics) were crumbling. Wire wheel on a Dremel removed the crumbling bits. Sling swivels in bad shape too, but salvageable after the wire wheel
I just finished re-bluing everything - pins, screw heads, stock furniture.

The stock came clean! beyond all my expectations. However the inboard side (for right-hander) butt is considerably darker than the outboard and everything else. I suppose this was monthly of right-handed-doug's sweat and grime.
I gave all a light sanding with 320 - just enough to even things out, but leave all the stamps in tack. Next, I used birchwood Casey walnut stain at full strength on all the wood, with second coats of stain or a damp piece of cloth with water, until the entire stock parts matched up real nice. After drying, I rubbed in several thin coats of linseed oil.

Wow I am impressed at how this old war horse is coming back! My first scrub of the stock took off the layer of cosmoline and grime that was hiding the grain, leaving only blotchy wood underneath. I was careful with a q-tip to stain inside all the dings and deep scratches. Now the color is very uniform whilst still showing it's decades of use and abuse.

Pictures coming as I re-assemble - including the bore.

[ssgross]

Here are some pics from inside the 2-groove barrel
Attachment 105486
above is just after the final step of the chamber. Chamber on the right, a ring of fire-cracking at the base, and the start of the rifling on the left.

Here is a pic just past that, 1 inch in, on one of the lands. nice and shiny, but some fire cracking.
Attachment 105487

All the rifling looks nice and sharp throughout, even in the throat - except for that ring at the end of the chamber.
Attachment 105488

The inside crown looks nice - no nicks or scratches. Outside the muzzle the finish was near worn off but cold-blued very nice.
Attachment 105489

I'm not too impressed with the saved pictures from my Lyman borecam. They look dull, whereas on the screen it was quite bright.

I'm interested to hear what the experts think - especially about the "ring" at the end of the chamber.

[ssgross]

Some final pics.

Attachment 105490Attachment 105491Attachment 105492Attachment 105493

I only did 1 coat of cold blue on the buttplate trap door so it doesn't look too newish. Doug's doodle pops out well on the Side of the butt.

I was worried about the gap between the butt and the side of the socket. There was none, or at least I couldn't see one. Tried to slide a notecard in. no go. I settled on making 2 shims out of a notecard with holes in the middle that sit at the bottom of the socket, for a thickness of .0176. Now I can easily slide a single notecard around the edge, but sliding 2 in pretty tight.

Lastly, I did a bubba's headspace test. Using a stripped bolt, (no firing pin or extractor clip), the bolt closes on a properly sized case. Stick a piece of foil tape (0.003 thick) on the base of the case and insert. the bolt falls just short of fully closing. with 2 pieces of tape (0.006) the bolt falls very noticeably short of closing.

I think it's time to take it to the range, and hopefully shoot a group worthy of posting one last pic.

[TankerDon]

Nice save! I hope it shoots as good as it looks.

[Scout Sniper]

That looks great, nice job you have done!

I really like the "Doug" doodle on the butt, great character.

A quick side note on shims for the butt. Use gasket paper, it comes in many different thicknesses and is not effected by or will deteriorate in contact with oils.