1944 GRI No.1 MKIII

[Bruce_in_Oz]

Looking at the third photo you posted; the one showing the underside of the bolt-head, maybe your gun-plumber meant "lip" not "clip". Unless the bolt-head is retained in the "groove" along the right side of the body, it will make closing the bolt difficult, to say the least. When you put the bolt in, does the bolt-head "clip" firmly over the little machined spring plate, (Spring, Retaining), just in front of the RH locking shoulder?

If the bolt-head is not fully engaged with this spring and thus, the guide groove forward of it, the extractor will foul the body and prevent bolt closure.

If the "Spring, retaining" is in good condition, but there is no positive "click" when you press the bolt-head down, the problem may be as simple as a loose retaining screw allowing the spring to flop about a bit. annoyingly, the fore-end has to be removed to tighten that screw. This will also entail the removal of the outer band (the front band with the sling swivel on it). This, in turn normally requires that the screw in that band must be removed. DO NOT just try to wind it out with the "big screwdriver" or you will mangle the threads in the band. On all original fittings, the end of the screw has a hollow end which is flared outwards with a punch, so that it stays in place. The trick is to CAREFULLY drill into the flared-out hollow end until it no longer binds on the thread in the band.They have a bastard, "Enfield special" thread (usually). Most purveyors of fine Lee Enfield parts will have these screws in stock because they were a "disposable" item, being removed EVERY time the fore-end was removed for examination or repairs. If and when you remove this screw, use a single, tiny drop of Loctite to retain the new one as it is correctly torqued up. (Hand-guard should not rattle, band should not move but the sling swivel should be free to move).

Options, then:

Damaged bolt-head; REPLACE, which is NOT as simple a task as might be imagined.

Broken or worn / distorted retaining spring: (replace),

Or a loose screw: (Tighten). That screw also doubles as the pivot for the sear, so it needs to be in good conditions and firmly snugged up in the correct place.

[SRiverrat11]

Here are what I think is the only angles not captured before. The old bolt is on the right, the replacement bolt is left. Both bolts are now functioning properly in the rifle. I do need to figure out a way to make the FP removal tool that I did not know existed before yesterday. I really appreciate the help you have all given me.

[browningautorifle]

The safety stud in the cam-track area of the bolt body looks a bid odd, "texture-wise".

Agreed, that would be cause for concern and it well may be broken. You almost need to turn the cocking piece out of the way, pull it back and turn it aside. Pic of the area...

Also the firing pin tool... https://www.libertytreecollectors.co...?idproduct=584

[SRiverrat11]

Agreed, that would be cause for concern and it well may be broken. You almost need to turn the cocking piece out of the way, pull it back and turn it aside. Pic of the area...

Also the firing pin tool... https://www.libertytreecollectors.co...?idproduct=584

Thanks BAR, Your last pic made me look and there's definitely part of that scraped/broken off. I put the additional pics above this post.

[browningautorifle]

If you pull back on the spring loaded cocking piece and turn it away from the bolt handle you will show the spot clearly...might help. Yes, it looks damaged.

[SRiverrat11]

Well, this doesnt look good. How important is that lug?

[browningautorifle]

How important is that lug?

Perfect picture...the bolt is hooped. That's a safety feature. The bolt body is done...

[Alan de Enfield]

Well, this doesnt look good. How important is that lug?

Put it this way - "Do you want a bolt sticking out of your forehead ?"

[Roger Payne]

The bolt will cycle but will be highly dangerous as you will not have a properly functioning safety......

That replacement bolt now needs fitting properly. At least you have spares that you can salvage off the broken bolt body.......everything else is potentially still usable & has a value.

[SRiverrat11]

Well its a month later, I took my rifle to a gunsmith who said he could rebuild the bolt and headspace the rifle. I picked it up the other day with the bolt rebuilt and asked if it was hard to headspace? The reply I received was, I dont have the tools to headspace this.........So, does anyone know a gunsmith I can ship this to in the States that can headspace it? Wyoming is not the milsurps gunsmith capiltal of the country. Well heck. I just looked where all the Milsurps members on this thread were from. You guys are great, but Australia, England, and Canada are probably not going to be able to help me.