Long rifle or short? Anti-aircraft sight wings still on? Sling still around?Information
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Long rifle or short? Anti-aircraft sight wings still on? Sling still around?Information
![]()
Warning: This is a relatively older thread
This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.
Veteran US Navy Seabees - US Army Corps of Engineers - American Legion Post 0867
" Only two defining forces have offered to die for me. 1.) Jesus Christ 2.) The American G.I. "One died for your soul, the other for your freedom! "
Bill,
The interest in Arisakarifles have increased in the past two or three years so much and the prices have risen too. Here in the northeast, I've seen type 99"s with ground mums and mismatched bolts go in the low $500 range and few had cleaning rods.
Check again for a 3 digit number on the underside of the bolt handle where it meets the bolt body. This should match the serial number. The same 3 numbers should show up on the bayonet lug. See if the rifle has a cleaning rod and, if it does, remove it to see if it is original, not repro. As was already asked, the AA sights are important. The bore on most all are good.
If all these things check out and you really want a nice Arisaka then the asking price isn't off the mark.
With any Arasaka you want to check the stock for a correct finish, this is a huge factor many have been refinished. You want original, not redone. Make sure the bolt matches. Make sure an original cleaning rod is present, most have reproductions. I like early rifles with a chrome lined bore. It is always nice if the dust cover matches,if it had a dust cover. Check the maker and rarity chart. Maker, stock finish, & matching bolt are a big factor in price. Do you want a collector or shooter? Does the rifle have an original sling or reproduction? Milsurps has a fantastic Knowledge Librarywith tons of photos showing the best examples. Check out the Japanese
section see
https://www.milsurps.com/content.php...-by-Toyo-Kogyo)
There is a big difference in price for a shooter with a refinished stock, fake cleaning rod, ground mum, and mismatched bolt in comparison to an intact bring back.
For prices all collectors of surplus firearms should have a copy of the Standard Catalog of Military Firearms: the collectors price and reference guide, 9th new edition by Phillip Peterson. If you are new to surplus firearms check out my post on another forum :
Buying first surplus rifle, what to look for - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.com
Yep, Type 99s can go at Wi gun shows as dog shooters at $150 to intact collectables at around $800-900. Prices depend on the markings & how rare it is, the stock finish, the matching numbers and parts, the original $200-250 sling, an original cleaning rod, mum intact, bore & chamber condition. Is it a USMC bring back with papers and provenience?
An average shooter in WI with maybe a refinished stock, matching bolt, no dust cover, no cleaning rod or a fake rod with an intact mum could be found around $250-350. Prices be nuts at this time. Prices are also regional dependent.
Best advice look at examples of bring backs and get a feel for a correct finish to the wood and metal. Bring a print out of makers marks so you will know the maker and series, Print out the rarity chart. Then look at its attributes. Go to a library and read up on Arasaka rifles. Almost all have a copy of Military Rifles of Japan by Fred Honeycutt.
Always study this forums Knowledge library. It is beyond fantastic .
Also check out this page and print it out for reference.
https://oldmilitarymarkings.com/japanese_markings.html
I also found this post great on this forum:
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=42450
Lets say it is a bring back from Okinawa, It most likely will have all matching wood and metal. The bolt may not match the rifle, but it then should match itself. Most bring backs have matching bolts and a sling that I found years ago. A true bring back complete , but no papers can go above $1000. Some refinished or recoated the stock as a bring back- this is bad news for value. If the rifle is still in the box it was shipped home in its priceless. I like damaged rifles with flame burns or bullet damage. be sure to look for the numbers, the numbers on the bolt handle, extractor, firing pin, & safety knob stem should be the same as the last one to three digits of the rifle serial number. I agree with the above poster, depending on its condition especially the stock finish and cartouches, the rarity value of some models, the price might be a fair one to a steal.
for data sheets as check off hints or tons of information see Banzai web page : BANZAI
Last edited by 72 usmc; 09-24-2020 at 09:54 PM.
72 USMC, Thank you for all the information! I have taken a great deal of notes and will go take a second informed look at the rifle today if it's still there; from what I have read here I may have a winner. The only question I have now, is how can you tell an if what there is the original cleaning rod? I did read about it but there but the only thing I found was this picture, I'm guessing it would be the shape of the two lugs the orgainl lugs looks to have a gentle, smoother, and longer end taper.
Thank you again for the help.
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Veteran US Navy Seabees - US Army Corps of Engineers - American Legion Post 0867
" Only two defining forces have offered to die for me. 1.) Jesus Christ 2.) The American G.I. "One died for your soul, the other for your freedom! "
The original is stiff and does not bend easy, better steel that bends and springs back. Look at the patina on the metal. Look for rounded edges from use. Look for wear marks. Looks for dirt , rust and wear to the edges of the patch hole. There is generally milling marks on originals not smooth like found on the reproductions and there is a color and patina change to the portion of an original cleaning rod the was inside the covered and protected by the wood and the portion that was exposed out the storage hole. The original rod is not entirely a uniform color. Notice specific wear patterns, not a faked uniform blue removal with a scrubby. It is an experience thing- the more real ones you see, makes a fake will just stand out. No deep black blue or real sharp images on an original. Too smooth a surface and I would wonder. I have never posted images here, I am more on the surplusrifleforum, but due to a server switch all the photos of key posts have been removed so I can not show any examples. Now consider who is selling it. If a dealer, it could be faked to get a bigger buck, but a family getting rid of a surplus WW II item may buy a reproduction rod, but not go to extremes to add wear and age. They do not buy top of the line fakes, just stuff commonly found on flee bay. So who is selling the rifle is something to consider. Most reproduction rods are cheep Chinese or Indian made fakes that bend very easy due to soft metal. An original rod is tough and has spring to the steel. It' s like reproduction Civil War bayonets. Stick a Springfield into the ground upright with a real bayonet it stays erect, do that with a reproduction bayonet, the rifle will fold over on the easily bent bayonet.
Look at the threads on an original from some on line photos, look at the reproductions on eBay. Look at how the original rod end shape is to the threads and how long the section of threaded steel is. Look at how the top end misshaped formed: rounded or sharp. Some rods have Japaneseletters as a makers mark. I no longer remember which ones. Now, there are some machinists that make excellent, strong reproductions and some age these so it is difficult to tell. They are so good you will not know. You would find these at high price dealers or auction houses that put parts back on rifles to get top buck. There are more fakers of M1
carbines and K98
Mausers, than Japanese rifles.
Here are some pictures of originals from Libertytreecollectors. nice photos.
https://www.libertytreecollectors.co...idproduct=2503
In contrast here is an IMA cheep reproduction that bends like a coat hanger:
https://www.ima-usa.com/products/jap...nt=26157213829
Another fake ,but it shows the ends and threads:
https://www.desertcart.com.kw/produc...9-cleaning-rod
There is no tutorial on Arasaka Cleaning rods, but here is one about K98 rods that might give you some clues what to look for: threads, patina, edges, blue>
Original German WWII Era 10 & 12 Inch Cleaning Rods
If from a private person and a rare maker with original stock, matching; if you can get it at $500 grab it. Risk it. Bring backs are getting hard to find.
If it is a nice arsenal like Jinsen (star mark) or Hotel-Mukden (circle with 3 spokes inside a circle ) it's really nice. And be sure it was not rechambered to 30-06.
Last edited by 72 usmc; 09-25-2020 at 02:59 PM.
If you feel bad about the price , this will make it seem better. See what they get for an airsoft replica
Air soft, Type 38 Arisaka - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.com
Veteran US Navy Seabees - US Army Corps of Engineers - American Legion Post 0867
" Only two defining forces have offered to die for me. 1.) Jesus Christ 2.) The American G.I. "One died for your soul, the other for your freedom! "
Veteran US Navy Seabees - US Army Corps of Engineers - American Legion Post 0867
" Only two defining forces have offered to die for me. 1.) Jesus Christ 2.) The American G.I. "One died for your soul, the other for your freedom! "