1933 SA 1903

[mrandig]

It's probably not clear in the photos, but I did hit my first snag during the cleaning process.

Attachment 112635

How and why this was put in so deep is a mystery to me. I didn't want to get so aggressive with it that I damage the buttplate, but this screw is STUCK. I'll have to scratch my head for awhile and figure out how to get this out. All things considered, I don't really have a need to take it out (the cleaning is already done), so I may just leave it.

Information

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[mrandig]

For the new handguard, I'm going to use Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) to finish.

If you've never bought BLO before, 1 gallon of the stuff lasts about 3 family generations. The amount you need to complete one rifle is pretty small, so just a quart will probably last a few years. This is Klean Strip brand, again just what they had at the store at the time I bought it.

Attachment 112659

[mrandig]

Oiling the handguard will take several coats; today will be the first one. I'll probably repeat at least three times, until I'm happy with the way it looks.

Required supplies:

1. Fingers
2. Aluminum foil
3. Tape
4. Plastic cup
5. #0000 Steel Wool
6. New handguard

Attachment 112660

Why did I feel it necessary to point out that I needed fingers? Why not point out also that I need feet to stand on or eyes to see with? The reason being, we will be hand rubbing the oil into the wood from this point.

[mrandig]

The aluminum foil is actually so I don't get oil (any more oil) soaked into my workbench.

Attachment 112661

[mrandig]

The BLO gets rubbed into the wood by hand, then I'm going to use the #0000 steel wool to get the oil in deep into the grain. Use small circular motions for the best results.

Attachment 112662Attachment 112663Attachment 112664

No, I'm not wearing gloves. Thanks for asking. BLO isn't toxic. I'm not wearing a COVID mask either.

The final pic is the handguard covered with oil. I'll come back in about 30 minutes and wipe off the excess, and we'll see what it looks like then. This first coat goes on pretty heavy and gets rubbed in with steel wool, any coats after this will be light.

[mrandig]

A wipe down to remove any excess, and it's done for today. If this coat is left on too heavy, it will become sticky, and instead of drying in 24hrs, it will be more like 24 days.

Looks good. I'll put on a second coat tomorrow. That's about all i can do for the stock and forend right now.

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[ssgross]

but this screw is STUCK

A little heat applied directly to the screw head should allow you to turn it out. Don't go crazy - a very little is all that is needed. When I completely tear down an old rifle for a deep clean (usually soon after purchase), I always smear a little white NLGI No.2 grease on any wood to metal contact not likely to see the light of day for another 100 years - such as on those screws and under the butt plate. I picked up the trick from the enfield armorers on that side of this forum.

[mrandig]

I picked up the trick from the enfield armorers on that side of this forum.

Don't get me started on Enfields lol. I've got another thread started on my No.4 Mk.1, which I need to pick back up once I'm done here.

I may hit it very, very briefly with the MAPP gas torch I've got hiding around here somewhere, and see if it budges any. Thanks!

[mrandig]

Final BLO on the stock, final BLO on the handguard. I think it's time to call these done for now, as they've getting to the point where they're starting to weep overnight. Couldn't have come out any better.

Back to the Forend piece. I did a mud-rub yesterday (wet sand with oil), buffed this morning with #0000 steel wool, and rubbed in a follow-up coat of BLO, but I'm not getting a good match to the other wood. It looked bearable originally but, ever since being cleaned, it now looks like it's been through a war (it likely has). Pretty gun, but with a rough, streaky, mismatched forend.

Here's where I'm at in terms of the proceeding:
1. Continue with more oil on just the forend, hopefully darkening the forend enough to match, and hide any issues; or
2. Dye the forend to darken the wood, to match better and hide any issues; or
3. "Nuke" the forend section back to bare wood, and start again. Might help get some of the streaking out, and I can also steam out some of the minor dents.

Each of the three options has its pluses and minuses. What does the group think?

My camera / phone is dead at the moment, but I'll add some pics shortly.

[mrandig]

Pics as promised. Maybe I'm just sensitive to the mismatch, but it seems very apparent to me. It just doesn't look close to the same wood. Those long streaks in the wood are making me wonder if this forend got a rough sanding job at some point.

Attachment 112749Attachment 112750Attachment 112751

Off topic, but note how awesome the handguard looks.

Any thoughts on the forend?