a3 front sight post

[browningautorifle]

We used to use a steel outer shell and poured lead jaws custom to what we were unscrewing. The barrel was grabbed in lead also with rosin and tightened down with a two ton jack in a steel box. The wrench was two bolts with a handle and a set of square outer jaws. I just eliminated the middle man and used straight aluminum so it could deform if need be and was cheaper to make. Usually there's been something to grab, a shape. The long handles help to avoid jerking the receiver. I'd reassemble the way Chuck suggests...dry will be good.

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[ssgross]

I'd reassemble the way Chuck suggests...dry will be good.

That's what I done. The final alignment took a little less undoing than I had calculated, I assume because I was generous in my measurement of how far left the rear sight was at zero.
What is more important is the bolt closed, so no extractor groove problems. I then too the extractor off, slid in a no-go gauge, and whatdayaknow, it no go! Threads all looked good inside and out, no peening at the shoulder. Taps on the wrench handle with heavy rubber mallet and it slid right in to position.
Attachment 114383front sight all lined up. Used a hex wrench underneath to make sure I got a good flat reading.
Attachment 114385This was where it was at hand tight.
Attachment 114386Attachment 114387 Final alignment.
Attachment 114388Final headspace on the no-go gauge.
Time to put it back together and go shooting!

EDIT: Not so fast silly goose...you have to slip on the handgaurd ring, rear band, front band, bayonet band BEFORE you put the front sight back on!