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Thread: Buying a Rifle on Family Vacation - Another Remington 721

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  1. #1
    Legacy Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    Too bad the stock is so reduced, I like that kind as a shooter.
    When I first got it I considered extending the stock for the correct length of pull and refinishing it. I decided that it would just be better to replace it altogether. Besides, whoever fit the stock didn't quite get the fit correct. The barrel hits the barrel channel in a couple of places and with the action screws tightened down you can still move the receiver up and down so I would need to inlet the barrel channel, insert some pillars and bed the action.

    Today I found a really nice unfinished Montecarlo stock that would look nice on her. It would need final fitting and finishing but it has pretty wood, if I can get it for a good price I might go with it rather than factory stock.

    I haven't decided if I want to resell or give it to one of my kids yet after I'm done playing with it. I'm starting to get too many 721's and I'm still on my quest for a 1st year low number 721.
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  2. #2
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usabaker View Post
    When I first got it I considered extending the stock for the correct length of pull and refinishing it. I decided that it would just be better to replace it altogether
    I just did that with a 1936 Marlin only because a repro is unavailable and replacements are worse. I wasn't suggesting that, besides like you say too many issues.
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    I just did that with a 1936 Marlin only because a repro is unavailable and replacements are worse.
    Jim, that a lever-action Marlin? Sweet! those are pretty much untouchable price-wise anymore. The stock on the rifle, while wouldn't take much to get'her squared away, I just figure if I was going to put a bunch of labor (of love) in the stock it might as well be a nice piece of wood that wouldn't be splice at the buttstock. I'm always conflicted though with fixing what is, replacing with aftermarket, and putting factory wood back on these old gals.
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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usabaker View Post
    a lever-action Marlin
    That's the one. I had no choice when I rescued this one from a small interior town in B.C. Came from a farm where the wife used it to pot deer. It needed about everything. SURPRISE, the bore is very nice and very tight. I wanted a Marlin that had a Ballard barrel and now this one and a 336A from 1948 as well. Price on this worn old piece was $500 shipped and a bunch of parts that members here helped me procure. Anyway, here it is. Yes, low number and no prefix. 1936.
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    Last edited by browningautorifle; 01-06-2022 at 10:46 AM.
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    That's the one. I had no choice when I rescued this one from a small interior town in B.C. Came from a farm where the wife used it to pot deer. It needed about everything
    She's a beauty Jim, nice clean stock extension work. I can almost feel cycling the action.
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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usabaker View Post
    nice clean stock extension work
    I appreciate that Bill, I have seen much work by others here and still feel mine looks rudimentary. I have a friend here that's a cabinet maker and gun guy, refused to do the extension for me. He did guide me though and told me to use an epoxy instead of glue so I see a line. Used an existing busted 336 stock that had the same grain. Anyway, I agree that yours is much simpler to use a stock that is ready drop in. I'll bet you can still sell that high comb stock to someone.
    Regards, Jim

  7. #7
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    told me to use an epoxy instead of glue so I see a line
    I saw a thread here or somewhere where someone first coated the surfaces of a repair with glue (so to minimize the visible line), then put epoxy in the holes where the internal metal support was. The epoxy held the pieces together very tight, and the glue filled all the microscopic pores at the seam, and blended it all together.

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    Legacy Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    He did guide me though and told me to use an epoxy instead of glue so I see a line.
    Hi Jim, Did you add black tint to the Epoxy? It helps minimize the line. For a repair like that it's nearly impossible to hide the line unless you blend the transition using stains and paints of varying shades to connect the grains. Your repair looks as good if not better then others I have seen Don't know about the "Don't over tighten" I clamp the repair down hard, its the bite into each end of the wood that holds regardless if it's wood glue or epoxy. But that's just the way I was taught.

    I ended up buying two different stocks for this Remington, it was hard to see the grain being the stock are raw wood so I keep the one with the most character. I'm looking for a block of Gaboon Ebony to tip the end of the stock much the same way as the one that one it now. I figure if I'm not going to put a factory stock on it, I might as well build it the way I want it.
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