Milsurp rifle stock protection, cleaning/finishing questions

[usabaker]

pictures of finished samples?

I found a picture in my archives of a Remington 513 US Property .22 trainer that I did a while back for a friend. I used the 60/40 Turpentine/RLO to clean it up. I had to use burlap on this one as the applicator. I follow up once dry with a few coats of RLO and then buffed it off with some softened canvas.

If you will note none of the dings and scratches were removed, he wanted the history retained, He only wanted the years of dirt and junk removed.

Attachment 121309


I'll look for more and like I said pull some stuff out of the gun safe when I can

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[Singer B]

It almost looks sanded. Is that due to the RLO hydrating the wood and causing the grain to expand and smooth out?

[usabaker]

It almost looks sanded.

I almost never sand stocks, there is no need to. The most I do is hit them with 0000 steel or brass wool which I didn't do or risk even that on this stock, the last thing I would have wanted to do is ruin the FJA and other cartouches on his stock. It was scrubbed with burlap and the 60/40 mixture, wiped down and repeated until I got the results I wanted.

Is that due to the RLO hydrating the wood and causing the grain to expand and smooth out?

It's just because it's clean, once the grit and grime loosen up it kind of lifts out of the pores (I guess), it's only shiny because after the oil dried I buffed it with softened canvas.

There are times I completely remove the finish. It's when it needs major repairs and there is no other way.

When I take the finish off a rifle I do it using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, or even on bad cases where I have to soak part of or the whole stock in acetone to get gun oils (lubricants) that have gotten into the wood I haven't had to sand. Once I steam out the dents, (I may do localized sanding where I raise dents if I can feel it is above the surrounding wood,) I raise the grain and knock anything that pops up down with 0000 steel or brass wool. I have never found a stock that needed to be sanded unless I was doing a repair like cracks or breaks.

I will be removing the finish on the Enfield Musket using 91% Isopropyl just because the stuff is so thick and I can see cracks that need to be addressed;

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[Singer B]

Thank you!

[ssgross]

I almost never sand stocks, there is no need to

I have only ever sanded new wood. Typically the "problem" is just a buildup of wax, oil, sweat, etc. giving the wood an almost plastic like layer. My goal is to preserve the color as much as possible, but make the wood feel like wood again. I like baker's idea of Alkanet root to help maintain the "depth" of color that is underneath all the grime. I'll be doing my own experiments for sure.