will try, but Ive never been able to post pics...I am sure I am just not posting them correctly.
will try, but Ive never been able to post pics...I am sure I am just not posting them correctly.
Check your PM for email address, I'll post them for you.
---------- Post added at 06:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:56 PM ----------
I would practically guarantee it. The block has to be like this so the sights come TDC and your crush factor is present...and it's all pinned together.
Too, you could have the flats out of whack and have an optic pointing off at an angle. Things to be aware of...then you're shooting "Over there" and can't get it correct.
I disagree that they worked fine, I've fitted enough barrels to find they were out by a smidge. Standards were lax enough to allow them to shoot passably but TDC is correct when it's correct. The M1rifle sights aren't so hard to do once you've done a couple and then you get them perfect. Lines aren't needed. They would only lead you astray thinking you were correct when you weren't.
Regards, Jim
Agreed. I'm no gunsmith, just an armorer level knowledge, but I've done lots of Garandbarrels, including at the CMP
's Garand building class. A couple of alignment rods for the rear sight flat and front sight flat (temp fit the gas cylinder) make it an easy task. Have the correct barrel or action vise, and correct action or barrel wrench.
I had to make a barrel vise and an action vise that I could come on to and I use an angle meter on the front sight flat and rear sight flat. That works for both M1 and M14. This scope mounting block will have been put on with a jig for locating and then machine drilled and pinned. Not done by eye or guess.
Regards, Jim
Is the fit between the base and barrel perhaps more of a slip fit, or a very light interference fit then? Drilling and pinning and using a fixture as I think you mean would indicate that the base would be rotated slightly, as needed, after sliding or pressing it on the barrel to achieve perfect alignment before pinning (I am assuming the pin hole is then match drilled after final orientation is set.)\
I was unaware that these bases are pinned. I need to do more homework, but also get my hands on the drawings.
Very tight and drilled to pin. Then the whole thing is done with machinery set up for the job. I'm sure you'll eventually curry out a picture of an original barrel in the loose.
Asking about the indexing line for carbines, ask Charlie over on the carbine forum. Those guys have had lots of spares go past them and can tell you more perhaps. I just know I disregard the lines as a guarantee.
Regards, Jim
This is my understanding as well. Barrel and action vises I got. I recall the instructions I read a while back about the angle meter (this version instructed the use of a level on the sight flat after the receiver was verified level). I like the idea of an angle meter much better, BUT I dont have one...unless there I can use an ap on my cell phone????
Yep, I realized that once I saw your comment. That eliminates the need to 'level' the receiver and is surely far more accurate!
Before I spend monies not in my pathetic senior citizen budget, I still hope I can just load an angle meter ap to my phone. HOWEVER, my shop is FULL of tools acquired over the years for reasons such as this and I would not mind adding yet another one! :-) A MAN CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH TOOLS, FIREARMS, GUITARS, AND AIRPLANES (OK, so I cant afford vintage military airplanes, but a man can dream, even at my age!)
---------- Post added at 10:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 AM ----------
You have a far better eye than I have, but I understand the logic and validity of that method. Cleaver! It would more than do in a pinch if other tools are not available!
From an design engineer and manufacturing point of view, no, the scribed lines should be absolutely correct, being scribed within a calibrated jig (or so would have been my spec if I had been the design engineer). I have also barreled nearly 100 M1Carbines, over 200 '03s and 1 (one) M1917 and the results were always dead on.
HOWEVER, to my surprise I am currently working on an M1 Carbine and the scribe lines DO NOT line up! This is a first for me. The early WIN barrel is NOS from James River and the receiver is WIN is an early SN, but in not so good condition. I suspect the barrel, but there is something else going on with this barreled receiver. It may be an optical illusion, but the centerline of the barrel does not seem to align perfectly with the center of the receiver when looking down the length from the back of the receiver. It is as if the center of the threads of the barrel is not concentric with the bore, or the thread of the receiver is not aligned with the center of the receiver. Ive never seen such a thing before. Yet, when fully assembled, the carbine seems to function properly with rounds feeding and ejecting from the barrel without any problem. Even though the receiver is in poor cosmetic condition, I begin to suspect that the barrel is the problem...and I paid A LOT for that barrel!