I've been having eyesight issues since my retina detachment back in 23 so the decision is to add glass to as many of my milsurps as possible without permanent modifications. This is step one of many.
Here we have my virtually unfired 03-A3 that I picked up last year. I went as far as adding the .100" wide Marine Corp front sight blade and buying a replacement peep and drilling it out to .150" in a vein attempt to see the target and sights simultaneously, it didn't work. The modification process went as such,
New C stock and handguard from The 1903 Store. This is the early thin wrist type stock as the description said because it's a farily early 03-A3. I went with new because I couldn't bear to do the necessary mods to a stock with history. Besides leave that for someone with the real thing that needs the real thing.
SK no drill 03-A3 scope mount as no permanent modifications is the goal. Seems to fit and function well but time and use will be the best test.
Weaver 29S scope. This is the post war iteration of the 330/M73B1 scope manufactured from 1945-1947. This is a post reticle click adjustment scope reminiscent of those 330's put on A4s early in the war.
So I had heard horror stories about removing the sights on these rifles. The front sight base seemed to come of willingly once the pin was removed with a few moderate taps. The rear sight was a bit more of a challenge having been peened in place on 2 locations. Drilling out the peen spots and a few vigorous taps and the rear sight base was off. Done conservatively enough so it can be put back in place and the drilled spots are invisible once the sight is put back in place. The bolt which is not the original but a Remington that I assembled from parts and headspaces perfectly. I ground it for scope clearance and cold blued it for function. It came out somewhat decent.
The scope was a bit cloudy as most 80 year old non sealed scopes naturally are. Occular lens was easy enough to remove and clean both sides. With that lens off and a long q-tip the inner lens was easily cleaned at the rear. The front lens was fairly easy to remove once the sealant was chipped off. The photos show how nasty they were on the inside. Back of the lens cleaned and the front of the middle lens as well the scope is really not that bad. I'm going to have to do this to all my other non sealed scopes. I have an assortment of scopes to use as it's a Weaver rail and quick change ring setup. Just in case the old 3x-3/4" tube isn't up to the job with my questionable vision.
Still waiting for a trip to the range as a combination of weather and personal commitments has been getting in the way.
Drilling out the peen spots and a few vigorous taps and the rear sight base was off.
The metal on the rear sight base is very soft, and the peens are easily overcome with a stout whack of the right weight hammer - but you need to support the ears with a block between them. A 3d printed cube has done the trick for me many times. No additional holes. I have dealt with some stubborn ones, but none that I needed to drill out the peening. Unless you plan to bayonet fight, the set screw and/or perhaps a dab of green loctite on the dovetail edges is enough to hold the sight.
Going down this road myself. With corrective lenses, it's one or the other. Of course, left eye is the better of the two. Nice looking job!
After cataract surgery I was 20-20 for the first time in my life. I have been wearing glasses since I was 6 years old. I even spent the extra money to eliminate reading glasses as well. That was in March of 23. By September of 23 the retina detachment happened with an emergency surgery that day. Horrible experience I don't recommend it. After all healing eyedrops vision therapy ect I ended up with 20-80 vision in my right eye corrected to 20-40 with, yes, glasses again. But I still have 20-20 in the left and I'm right hand dominant. Sometimes nature loves to kick you in the you know whats.
Thank you! It was a labor of love, I really enjoyed the project. Can't wait to see how it plays out.
The metal on the rear sight base is very soft, and the peens are easily overcome with a stout whack of the right weight hammer - but you need to support the ears with a block between them. A 3d printed cube has done the trick for me many times. No additional holes. I have dealt with some stubborn ones, but none that I needed to drill out the peening. Unless you plan to bayonet fight, the set screw and/or perhaps a dab of green loctite on the dovetail edges is enough to hold the sight.
Goes to show that you learn something new every day. Having never done this before and wanting to preserve everything removed I applied excess caution.
I was having a fit trying to get it to move and one ear actually started to bend in a little. That's when I decided to defeat the peening. I didn't drill through as you can see so the serrations were unaffected. Just made it thin and weak at the peens and it let go right away.
No, if I were to be engaged in a bayonet fight I would prefer it to happen with my M1A. Besides have you seen the prices of M1905 bayonets lately? Mine have become partial retirement accounts !!!
such was my first one too and I had to make a block to set the ears back to square. I think I would prefer to bayonet fight with a 1917.
I had corrective surgery a while back. I spent over 40 plus years severely near sighted and my eyes not needing to work at all to focus on a front sight post. I find now 0.5 safety/shop readers make the best shooting glasses. Any more magnification and you completely lose the target. Took me a while to learn to shoot again. I was pretty good before, pretty crappy shot right after and it was almost a year later before I felt back to normal.
So I finally got to the range with the 03-A3/A4 today. 45° wind WNW @ 10-15 mph. Scope used was the Weaver 29S solely as I forgot to bring the other 2. Ammo used was original Lake City M72 1967 vintage. Ammo is clean with the slightest touch of tarnish.
Group #1 first 3 shots out, my boresighting worked. X marks were single shot adjustments. Group #2 was 4 shots out and was pushing the end of available adjustment. Group #3 was 2 shots out and windage adjustment at maximum lock. Lesson 1 that damn rifle can shoot, lesson 2 there's a reason why they used the Redfield base which has it own windage adjustment built into it. These ancient little scopes need external help complete windage adjustments. With the Weaver rail and rings you're locked in solidly with no adjustment help available. I'm going to have to figure something out with this.
Suggestions welcome.
I had been debating with myself on installing a trigger system or not on the sniper project. Then I saw a Timney trigger sale online with no tax or shipping and that tied it up for me. I have these triggers on many of my more accurate less valuable milsurps and my Savage Axis. It's far superior to the accutrigger in my opinion.
Installation went smoothly with the biggest hassle being removal of wood from the trigger area of the stock. A dremmel with an endmill bit works best in my experience but a ballmill can also be substituted. Minor adjustments of the triggers sear and backlash were necessary as the firing pin wouldn't fall, again easy peasy.
It's now set at 3 pounds with no creep and imperceptible travel. Seeing as the shots started touching after the first 7 shots once the barrel fouled with 58 year old match ammo I can't wait to try it out with my handloads. Range report hopefully coming soon.
While I had the barred action out of the stock I loosened all the screws on the scope base and made a slight adjustment to the right at the front. The rear can be moved slightly in the dovetail but I left that unless it's really needed as it's nicely seated in the receiver right now. It took the adjustment but some wood had to be relieved at the reciever front for the new position of the clamp. Was in there doing that work anyway so no big deal. The scope was apparently on a slight cant which reduced it's windage travel. Everything has been addressed and it seems to have worked out well by a boresighting.
The pics show the red of the trigger housing peeking through the receiver which I didn't like. A quick application of sharpie cured that quickly. Once again I'm impressed with the quality and function of Timney products which is why I keep buying them.
I built a hunting rifle many years ago in the '80s from a k98k action, had been a 7.62 Israeli. I used a trigger housing without the mag block and a Doumolin barrel chambered from blank, no iron sights. I had to order a stock from Numrich and drilled and tapped for blocks, added a Timney trigger at about $120CDN at the time. It sure was nice, gave no creep and was perfect and clean let off. I used that rifle for years until an armorer couldn't live without it and bought it... Yes, Timney works well.
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Originally Posted by oldfoneguy
