Cases and Enfields and lube - Oh my!

[jmoore]

Another thing to consider on the original subject is that the point of imact WILL be different with a dry versus oily chamber. Dry is easier to maintain uniformly. (Temperature/humidity variations change bedding/POI but that's a whole other story)

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[Alfred]

Another thing to consider on the original subject is that the point of imact WILL be different with a dry versus oily chamber. Dry is easier to maintain uniformly. (Temperature/humidity variations change bedding/POI but that's a whole other story)

A good point. But maintaining a completely clean and dry chamber from shot to shot is unlikely, unless one cleaned with a solvent that removed all traces of oil between each and every shot.
I can't go along with lubricating cartridges , but the completely Dry Chamber isn't likely to be feasible. A chamber free of excess oil is feasible, all that takes is swabbing with a clean patch before shooting the first rounds of the day. Having a chamber free from excessive fouling is just a matter of regular cleaning. A well polished chamber is easier to clean.

A rough chamber collects fouling and is harder to clean.

If a chamber is really rough theres not much that can be done, removal of metal in an already loose military chamber could leave it dangerously over sized.

Best to clean the chamber throughly to see what you have before even begining reloading.
I've seen many that had a thick compressed buildup of hard fouling that to the naked eye looked no different than the normal surface of a chamber. Most of this sort of fouling collects in the neck and shoulder areas. When it extends into the body of the chamber grit can embedd in the fouling. I never use bore pastes until I'm certain all hard fouling is removed. Chamber brushes have little effect on very old fouling, I've made brass scrapers that do the job, and I've seen this fouling come out of necks in strips like shavings of black plastic, and graphite come away like pencil shavings.
.0000 steel wool will generally clean out the thinner fouling in the body and shoulder area. I never use any powered tools, hand turned tools only.
Steel wool doesn't cut or grind chamber steel, it burnishes, which is a better finish than a polished finish from even the mildest abrasives.

Once fired cases from the chambers of my rifles could pass for unfired cases.

[ireload2]

Another thing to consider on the original subject is that the point of imact WILL be different with a dry versus oily chamber. Dry is easier to maintain uniformly. (Temperature/humidity variations change bedding/POI but that's a whole other story)

If one is obsessed with the condition of the chamber of his rifle and insures that it is free of oil why is no mention is ever made of the condition of the ammunition.
Old arsenal produced ammo will have varying degrees of cleanliness from arsenal new, to tarnished and maybe slightly corroded. Then along comes Nigel the anal Enfield owner and polishes his brass to a 4Ra finish and fires the same in his rifle expecting exactly the same performance. I don't think that mechanical brakes work that way. Changing the surface texture modifies the coefficient of friction between the two surfaces.

[ireload2]

>>>>And what we should remember is NO ONE can furnish ANY printed material from ANY reloading manual, H.P. White Laboratory or ammunition manufacture recommending adding ANY oil or grease to our chambers or cartridge cases before firing them.<<<<

It is industry standard practice to lubricate 22 LR ammunition at the factory.
This burned lubricant gets in to chambers and actions. It accepted to be part of the the product when you buy 22 LR. It is accepted that you have to clean a 22 from time to time to deal with build up of the residue.