When you are going to do any research on oil finishes Google the topic from every possible angle and then look up the MSDS sheets (Material Safety Data Sheet) for the products contents.

If the MSDS sheet does not list what the product contains DO NOT use that product because the company is trying to hide the contents of the product.

I applied Behr Tung oil to a stock because it was recommended by a very knowledgeable person only to find out later the contents of the product had changed and it was now had 50% linseed oilicon and was a wiping varnish. Behr Tung oil contains absolutely NO tung oil and was changed to save the company money.

Example below is fake boiled linseed oilicon, it is not boiled, it is not polymerized oil, it contains linseed oil with resins and dryers added.
http://www.newparks.com/PDF/MSDS/SOL...LinseedOil.pdf

Example below is real boiled linseed oil and contains no chemical additives to thicken and aid in drying.
http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/m...5/wcd025c0.htm

Linseed oil info (read tech specs)
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...uct.do?pid=145

Good info
Traditional Finishing Techniques - Google Books

Note: do NOT use oil base stains to color your stocks, oil base stains will dry on the surface of the wood and prevent the linseed oil from penetrating into the wood, use alcohol or water base stains as these do not seal the wood surface.



A wall paper wetting tray can be used to soak old dry stocks that need a long drink and cause the wood to swell to help cure wood shrinkage (tighten up your loose fore stock)