BLO or oiled wood

[ireload2]

Horton Surname Origin
(Locality). A town in Yorkshire England--the horrible town, or the town in the ravine, from Horr, a ravine.

[louthepou]

Back on topics kids, puh-leeeze. I want to learn stuff, my head is still too empty for my taste.

Wait, what was the topic of this thread again?

[RJW NZ]

...er, sniffing too much blow, oops, what a typo, BLO...

hey, no problem with the thread growing to other subjects, I bypass any heated parts and get to digest the facts on a new subject, no problem...to be honest I really didn't understand about oil in a chamber until now, so for me this is a win.

[Edward Horton]

When you are going to do any research on oil finishes Google the topic from every possible angle and then look up the MSDS sheets (Material Safety Data Sheet) for the products contents.

If the MSDS sheet does not list what the product contains DO NOT use that product because the company is trying to hide the contents of the product.

I applied Behr Tung oil to a stock because it was recommended by a very knowledgeable person only to find out later the contents of the product had changed and it was now had 50% linseed oil and was a wiping varnish. Behr Tung oil contains absolutely NO tung oil and was changed to save the company money.

Example below is fake boiled linseed oil, it is not boiled, it is not polymerized oil, it contains linseed oil with resins and dryers added.
http://www.newparks.com/PDF/MSDS/SOL...LinseedOil.pdf

Example below is real boiled linseed oil and contains no chemical additives to thicken and aid in drying.
http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/m...5/wcd025c0.htm

Linseed oil info (read tech specs)
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...uct.do?pid=145

Good info
Traditional Finishing Techniques - Google Books

Note: do NOT use oil base stains to color your stocks, oil base stains will dry on the surface of the wood and prevent the linseed oil from penetrating into the wood, use alcohol or water base stains as these do not seal the wood surface.



A wall paper wetting tray can be used to soak old dry stocks that need a long drink and cause the wood to swell to help cure wood shrinkage (tighten up your loose fore stock)

[Donzi]

This is a little late, but if you want real, pure, unadulterated tung oil, it's available from The Real Milk Paint Company, Quakertown, PA, tel. (215)538-5435 (Environmentally Friendly Paint - Real Milk Paint ®). A 16 oz. plastic bottle of "dark raw tung oil" cost me $10.25 plus shipping about 6 months ago and will probably last me the rest of my life. Both smaller & larger sizes are available from this source. Hope this helps.
Donzi

[Donzi]

Oops!! Guess I should have read the earlier pages of this string before posting. Anyway, they're a good outfit to do business with.
Donzi

[villiers]

It might seem a bit anorak. But I got expert advice from an old stock maker who worked for Krieghof. After sanding with 600 grit and steel wool, the stocks were treated with pure linseed oil and then rubbed by hand, using pure, unadulterated linseed oil and pumice dust for hours on end until the suface was so smooth that it appeared to be shiny but was in fact opaque.

[Peter Laidler]

That's basically what we did as apprentices Villiers, got the stock, complete with our poatches etc to as perfect a finish as we could then it went into a warm linseed oil tank for a few hours (while we started yet ANOTHER...) After a few hours, it drained and then we went to work on the linseed, boning it into the wood with another piece of hardwood. Until eventually, the linseed gave out a deep sheen. No ridges from the scraper or lines from sandpaper were allowed. Everything was perfectly smooth. Nothing but linseed oil was permitted. And when you saw what was achieved by our apprentice examples, you wonder why anyone would use varnish!

[villiers]

That's basically what we did as apprentices Villiers, got the stock, complete with our poatches etc to as perfect a finish as we could then it went into a warm linseed oil tank for a few hours (while we started yet ANOTHER...) After a few hours, it drained and then we went to work on the linseed, boning it into the wood with another piece of hardwood. Until eventually, the linseed gave out a deep sheen. No ridges from the scraper or lines from sandpaper were allowed. Everything was perfectly smooth. Nothing but linseed oil was permitted. And when you saw what was achieved by our apprentice examples, you wonder why anyone would use varnish!

Well, I´ve just done mine ... and the reason why it´s not done any more is

.
.
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slave labour is now prohibited.
(But the result was worth it. Reminds me of a cricket bat.

[Patrick Chadwick]

...I applied Behr Tung oil to a stock because it was recommended by a very knowledgeable person only to find out later the contents of the product had changed and it was now had 50% linseed oil and was a wiping varnish. Behr Tung oil contains absolutely NO tung oil and was changed to save the company money.

Edward et al, I would be grateful if someone could either verify the following or demonstrate that it is a myth:

I once read (sorry, I've lost the reference) that the tung oil used by the Japanese on the T38 and T99 rifles was derived from the Tung oil tree (Aleurites fordii). It belongs to the Euphorbia Family (Euphorbiaceae) and the juice of euphorbia plants, commonly known in the garden as spurges, can cause allergic reactions.

And, so the mislaid source, some GIs exhibited allergic reactions after handling captured Japanese rifles. This story may have some element of truth. If true, it would explain why a merchant of a wood finish might want to cash in on the known name of Tung as a good wood finish, but avoid using the real stuff to avoid medical claims from allergic customers.

Thanks to anyone who can clarify!

Patrick