Hello Peter,
I must confess my ingnorance regarding the proper way to check this. I put the new bolt in place and used light to see if I could detect any space between the bolt locking lug and the shoulder of the receiver. Seeing none, I am thinking the long lug side is OK. I will read the article you suggest when I get back from an Appleseed event over the weekend. I am hoping that the rifle will be salvageable, if not, so be it. I cannot explain my affection for the No.1 Mk.3s, but, THEY ARE REALLY COOL!
I don't remember who suggested pushing down on the bolt body and then release it to see if the handle moves or not, but, the matching bolt does indeed move and quite a bit at that. The new bolt doesn't seem to move at all. I placed a spent cartridge in the chamber that has a .059" rim thickness and the bolt barely closes. Since it was fired in the same gun and the CHS is unknown at this time with the original bolt this may be of no real value, since with excess CHS the shoulder would be pushed forward more than one with proper CHS and giving an eronerous perception of CHS. The rims that are .063 do not let the bolt close. I should have an old can of prussian blue that I could paint on the shoulder to see what sort of contact patch the locking lugs have.
I would really like to get this old girl operational as long as she is safe to be around when she goes bang.Information
![]()
Warning: This is a relatively older thread
This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.