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Advisory Panel
Originally Posted by
villiers
????????? Since when?
Don't worry Patrick, it happens to all of us. You know you've been here too long when you go back to the country of your birth and upbringing, and those who never left say "You do speak English well, where did you learn it?", thinking they are being nice to a foreigner.
In other words - one's gone a wee bit native. An Italian once described me as "Germanizzato". Since we were discussing political economics, I chose to take that as a compliment.
Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 08-25-2013 at 08:58 AM.
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08-25-2013 08:53 AM
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Advisory Panel
Originally Posted by
villiers
Since when?
Pardon me, I was going by your profile...
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FREE MEMBER
NO Posting or PM's Allowed
Nae bother ... ... as yours are the next two rounds.
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I dont like glossy finishes. They weren´t in use with army rifles.....only glossy looking rifle i can remember is a shellack finished Mosin-Nagant M1891.
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Legacy Member
Military wood finishes
I know I'm digging up bones but woodworking and refinishing doesn't go out of style and always needs to be addressed again eventually.
I've recently got into stock creations and have had to learn much about wood finishes and the results of many different chemistry's on different species of woods.
This thread gas been quite enlightening to me, Thank you.
Here's an example of one of my projects.
Attachment 105716
... and attached.
Attachment 105717
comments welcomed
Thank you,
Jimmy
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Legacy Member
So for someone that's about to oil up a dry stock, whats the difference between using BLO, RLO or a BLO/Turps mix?
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Thank You to Patrick Chadwick For This Useful Post:
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Legacy Member
Originally Posted by
Patrick Chadwick
Mixing
natural turpentine -
not any turps substitute/paint thinner/refinery leftovers - with the
BLO helps it to penetrate the wood. Simply sloshing on
linseed oil can result in a sealing layer of what is effectively linoleum on the surface and very little deep penetration of the wood.
And when treating a very dry stock, the internal surfaces (barrel channel and receiver cut-out) must be liberally oiled, as these areas have usually been ignored for the last century or so. Yet they are the areas that are heated up and dried out most by shooting. Don't be mean - use a narrow (1/4") paintbrush and make sure that you get the oil (made thinner with a little turpentine) into all the nooks and crannies, including the system bolt holes -
and the stockbolt hole (if the rifle has an Enfield-style stockbolt)..
Make sure that the oil has really penetrated and dried before repeating any treatment. No tackiness! This means being patient and waiting a couple of WEEKS after the first soaking of the internal surfaces. Subsequent treatment can use less turpentine, but the very first must penetrate well, as later applications seal the wood more and more.
Remember, the primary object is to keep the wood healthy, not to make it look pretty. Prettiness is a by-product of decades of care and drop-by-drop polishing!
Thanks Patrick, very informative. I'll definately be going witht he 50/50 mix to treat the timber!
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Advisory Panel
I forgot to add that the British also used to add a mystery powder to their warmed tanks of RLO as a built in stain. After quite a bit of research some friends and I think that it was ground alkinet root but no one seems to really know for sure.
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