Bren semi auto build - USA

[dogone]

I was practicing a weld with copper back plate. The copper was melted onto the weld and difficult to remove. Is this to be expected or am I doIng something wrong; to hot maybe. Once removed it cleaned up nicely but would be hard to get off while backing in a receiver.

Information

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[garthok]

If you start to burn through the copper it will stick, you can try going with thicker copper or let it cool a bit between passes. I am alternating opposite sides and going slow to try and minimize warping and shrinkage. I had burn through issues when I was trying to use brass as a back plate on another project. With my aluminum jig I can wipe off the burn marks, it hasn't melted at all.

[Peter Laidler]

We have a saying here that '.......you could spoil the ship for a hap'worth of tar'. Why not just ask the welder in post#5 to weld it. It's clear that he has the know-how plus the jigs, fixtures and fittings that he's used successfully before. I'm sure that he's your man..........

[ActionYobbo]

We have a saying here that '.......you could spoil the ship for a hap'worth of tar'. Why not just ask the welder in post#5 to weld it. It's clear that he has the know-how plus the jigs, fixtures and fittings that he's used successfully before. I'm sure that he's your man..........

that would be easy with out the rules, regulations, licences and the cost
for what you will pay to have it welded you could almost buy 3 more kits
I have welded a few and its not that hard but then they (other builders) say that the bren is the hardest kit to build
When I say its not that hard understand that I have years of welding experience. this is not something to learn to weld on.
Just remember to do all your semi auto modifications before you do any welding together of the receiver pieces...
thats cut the carrier rails, weld up the corresponding track in the receiver, weld the selector stop on the lower, weld the denial pins into the center section, cut the bolt and cut the piston post thats not all, there is more. decide what version you are going to copy and modify your lower acordingly. have fun and good luck

[Midmichigun]

Garth,
Looking good. If you don't mind, someone should post some of the SA parts that you get with the kit from MGS.
I am thinking about doing one as .308 due to the "cheap" ammo. HOwever, I seem to be starting to get rifles in .303... so I may do the next as original caliber.
Great rifles and shooting examples are a nice tribute to the sacrifice made by the troops who used them.

If you are going to build a jig, let me know. I am looking for help doing that also, and may be able to help with the material cost... If you don't mind doing the machine work....

[camerl2009]

Garth,
Looking good. If you don't mind, someone should post some of the SA parts that you get with the kit from MGS.
I am thinking about doing one as .308 due to the "cheap" ammo. HOwever, I seem to be starting to get rifles in .303... so I may do the next as original caliber.
Great rifles and shooting examples are a nice tribute to the sacrifice made by the troops who used them.

If you are going to build a jig, let me know. I am looking for help doing that also, and may be able to help with the material cost... If you don't mind doing the machine work....

.308 would need some major work the common thing to do is convert it to 7.62x54r thats what id do .303 brass is not cheap anymore and just about anything you find on the range floor is scrap(they are ok for converting to .410)

[garthok]

Projectguns does not work on kits with the cuts done to my receiver, it will require additional machining after welding.

After talking with a formerly licensed firearms manufacturer about the legality of manufacturing a firearm for personal use, I have decided to go the safe route and submit form atf-f-5320-1 Application to Make and Register a Firearm. Primarily due to the "non-sporting semi-auto from imported parts" argument. He is no longer licensed after his company was raided by the ATF, he was cleared of any charges, but some others were not so fortunate. He warned me the ATF loves grey areas, and to get written approval. The following is from the ATF website:

Q: Does the GCA prohibit anyone from making a handgun, shotgun or rifle?

With certain exceptions a firearm may be made by a non-licensee provided it is not for sale and the maker is not prohibited from possessing firearms. However, a person is prohibited from assembling a non-sporting semi-automatic rifle or non-sporting shotgun from imported parts. In addition, the making of an NFA firearm requires a tax payment and approval by ATF. An application to make a machine gun will not be approved unless documentation is submitted showing that the firearm is being made for a Federal or State agency.

[18 U.S.C. 922(o) and (r), 26 U.S.C. 5822, 27 CFR 478.39, 479.62 and 479.105]

I will post pictures of the semi auto parts later this week. I figure I have 6 months to learn to weld while waiting for approval. Again, I may not have to jump through the hoops, but would rather spend $200 than risk $10k and 10 years.

[Midmichigun]

Garthok,
This should be interesting on what you get back.
I understand the argument as to 922r, and I believe to counter this is to us a certain amount of US parts. I belive the rewelded receiver will count as 1 part... along with the piston... etc.. etc...

[garthok]

Bottom view of bolt showing extended firing pin
Attachment 34248
New striker/hammer
Attachment 34256
showing fit with modified bolt carrier
Attachment 34255
Bottom of bolt carrier modified to never catch in open bolt position
Attachment 34254
Side view of modification
Attachment 34253
Magazine follower, bottom plate and trigger. Compliance parts.
Attachment 34252
New gas piston another US made part
Attachment 34251
rails shortened to allow install in semi receiver
Attachment 34250
channel cut in old hammer to allow passage of extended firing pin
Attachment 34249
channel cut in front of bolt to allow install in semi receiver
Attachment 34257

[garthok]

This is the part that seems a bit confusing, these are my assumptions of how this works. if anybody comes across actual instructions for installation please post here.
Not all of the parts shown here are required all the time.
Attachment 34260
The hammer has recesses for two springs and their guides
Attachment 34259
The top three parts shown separate are a reliability addition to reduce binding when the hammer moves forward and gives it more energy to solve light primer hits. Again I'm assuming as I have not seen these in other builds.
Attachment 34258
Showing a rough guesstimate of how the parts are supposed to fit together
Attachment 34261

The guide/spring/tube at the top require drilling a hole in the stock to install.
Most of this is compiled from a post I found once and cannot find again.