Smith Corona 1903A3 rifle info

[Craig Eberhardt]

That doesn't look like a rifle imported from Vietnam - they were pretty rough. Very nice and looks original. It would be interesting to know the history.

While I take such things with a grain of salt, the story is that it was brought back from New Guinea by an Australian serviceman. There were a lot of US serviceman stationed down here during the war...perhaps it was souvenired?

The wear on the Smith corona bolt suggests that it has been polished heavily....perhaps it had accumulated some rust in storage as the barrel is in very good nick.

It looks to me that while the stock is probably original it may have been refinished at some stage. Does everyone agree that linseed oil is the appropriate treatment? Can anyone recommend a brand?

Thanks for your help

Information

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[jbrid]

Craig, check out the web page http://www.vishooter.net. It has a lot of information on 1903's from all manufacturers.

From the information on that page, it looks like your Smith-Corona was made in Oct. of 1943
Month end serial numbers were:
Sep 4765852
Oct 4789047
The barrel date of 9-43 looks correct. Other reported serial number and barrel dates from the web site were:
4770985 SC 8-43
4774689 SC 9-43
4775xxx SC 9-43
478xxxx SC 9-43
47850xx SC 9-43
4785691 SC 8-43
4785888 SC 9-43

I also have a Smith-Corona 1903, but from Feb, 1943 -- markings are very similar to yours - boxed FJA and crossed cannons; square with 8 in it, diamond with 3, triangle - number not readable, circle with 8 in front of the trigger guard. Buttplate on mine is very similar to yours, and both are very similar to the photo of a S-C butt plate on the ViShooter web page, so they appear to be correct. I'm still researching mine, but have had it out to the range a couple of times and have found it to be very accurate.

Hope this helps.
Jim

[Craig Eberhardt]

Thanks Jim,

Is your bolt blued or parkerised?

Craig

[Craig Eberhardt]

Thanks Jim,

Is your bolt blued or parkerised?

Craig

Further to my last I had a good look at my bolt in the sun today. It appears that while the bolt is blued(although the blue is worn) the extractor is parkerised. I can just make out a feint letter which I think is R on the face adjacent to the bolt. It does not have an R on the ring that goes around the bolt. The letter R that I can see is in a different font to the R markings on the other bolt.

Would I be right in thinking I have a Remington extractor on my rifle? Suggestions as to where I might be able to source a Smith Corona extractor? As far as I can tell this is the only non Smith Corona part on my rifle so I am keen to fix it up if possible.

Regards,

Craig

[jbrid]

Craig - the bolt on mine is definitely blued -- almost black really. Does show wear from use - down to white metal in a few strips or areas. Also, it is marked with a 2 and a punch mark "underneath" -- on the flat, where the bolt handle joins the body of the bolt, but I didn't see any other markings on the bolt. Floor plate & trigger guard are stamped metal and were parkerized. Just noticed the front sight blade on mine is marked with an "A". The "A" is in a font with serifs. Also, I think it is just a minor variation, but the boxed FJA and crossed cannons on mine are set farther back than on your rifle -- on my rifle, they start just behind the trigger guard.

Hope this helps.
Jim

Jim

---------- Post added at 12:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:30 AM ----------

By the way, the drawing sizes A, B, C, and D you referenced are standard engineering drawing sizes. Back when engineering drawings were produced by hand with pen/pencil on a drafting table (not on a computer like they are today) the "D" size was the standard "full-size" drawing. "B" size (11 x 17) were typically reduced size prints that were much easier to work with in the field. There is also a larger "E" size drawing that was much less common than the ones you listed -- don't remember the size, but it was larger than 22 x 32 -- this was most often used for plot plans.

Jim

[Rick the Librarian]

The "purists" vote for raw linseed oil (which you can get at art supply stores). I use boiled linseed oil and haven't noticed any particular difference. The key is to apply it in thin coats by hand. Wait, after application, maybe 30 minutes and wipe off the excess with a soft rag. Then, reapply. Some people also use Tung oil.

[Craig Eberhardt]

Hello there,

Had a good look at this rifle today. The stock has been sanded but the stamps have not been removed. It needs some oil to restore a more original look.

None of the parts have a R stamp. The barrel bands are all blued. The bolt has a small x on top of the bolt handle and a small 2 underneath. The bolt sleeve has a g on the front right face.

The floor plate and trigger guard is pressed metal and has a dark grey parkerised finished. The action is a olive green colour.

There is a silver oil bottle with a pull though and brush in one end in the butt trap.

The bolt headspaces very well.

Best of all the barrel cleaned up very well. Inspection with the bore scope revealed that the barrel is in almost new condition. It was very interesting to see the tool marks on the lands which suggests that the initial boring was a bit rough...perhaps due to production demands.

It also came with an M1 bayonet with an M7 scabbard. This is a 1943 UFH marked bayonet...it has a serial number on the side of the hilt....can anyone tell me why as I have not seen a photo of any other bayonet with a serial number in this spot.

The sight hood has a serial number commencing with the letter c on the side. Does anyone know what this serial number means?

As far as I can tell it is all original...if it is a parts build the builder has done a really amazing job.

Can't wait to shoot it.

Craig

[Mike D]

The sight hood has a serial number commencing with the letter c on the side. Does anyone know what this serial number means?Craig

I believe that is the drawing #. I believe all parts had one. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the letter denoted what scale the drawing was in.

If you want to post some photos of the bayo, just email them to me, and I'll get them posted when I get a chance.

Mike

[Rick the Librarian]

Can you post some pictures of the serial number on the side of the hilt?

[Rick the Librarian]

I thought the letter denoted the type of steel used. Open to correction on that, though.