some questions on a new No4mk1*

[conec]

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../mkvione-1.jpg

Information

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[Bear43]

You remember correctly, 5thBatt. Maltby did have a short run of rifles stamped Mk 1*. You don't see those too often, but every now and then one pops up.

[jessehh]

Could they have restruck it? I really can't see any cross outs. If they did grind the metal down on the receiver is it even safe to shoot?

[ssj]

If you have any worries I'd suggest taking it to a gunsmith. I looked at a mates new toy last night, a very nice 1942 LB, both lugs had a huge contact area and it only went 2/3rds down on the no-go....the barrel was so mirrored it hurt my eyes.....lucky so and so....

[Detroit-1]

Are we sure the she is a MK1 or a MK1*? I live in Waterford and sure would like to see that rifle.

[jessehh]

This is what I have on the rifle. This area looks scrubbed down a bit. If you look in front of the SN you can see an area that has been ground down smooth. I am not terrible concerned about the value of this rifle as it has a 1963 date and FR (my mistake saying it was FTR) stamp on the wrist. Now I'm thinking that everything was ground down nicely and restruck.

[Peter Laidler]

I have to say that I am not tooooooooo happy about this recent forum method of checking bolt locking-up cam bearing with whiteboard marker or indeed any other method than the loooooong time approved method. A couple of pointers first. The matching bearings of the bolt to the body have no consequence to or in any other situation except when the bolt is fully locked down and ready to fire. Whether just one or both or anything else has absolutely no bearing (if you'll excuse the pun.......) in any other position whatsoever.

Sorry to be a tad ruthless but let's nip this pure sxxxx in the bud straight away. Here is how to do it properly and forget all the rest of the crap, please......... That is for amateurs or the so called enthusiastic amateurs who really shouldn't be ......anyway! Bless 'em!

Remove the bolt and bolthead. The bolthead and CHS play no part in this, contrary to what you might read here or elsewhere........ Clean the rear surfaces of the bolt locking cam surfaces and the forward faces of the hardened body locking surfaces with clean methylated spirit. Now put a THIN smear of engineers blue onto the rear surfces of the bolt locking lugs OR the front surfaces of the bolt cams.... BUT NOT THE BOLT AND THE BODY!!!!!!!

Now squeeze the trigger to lower the sear and push the bolt FULLY in so that it overrides the locking cams. Now lower the bolt and you will see that the rear of the lugs are well clear of the locking/bearing surfaces of the body (you won't actually see the left one of course......). Now, while the bolt is still down AND locked, gently draw the bolt rearwards until the shoulders of the lugs meet up with the locking surfaces of the body. Do it slowly again and now push the bolt forwards, lift it up and draw it rearwards.

Only NOW will you see the witness surfaces that were bearing while the bolt was LOCKED in the firing position. This is the ONLY position that counts..........

Now do a couple of dry-runs to test and play before you do it for real. The next thing............ Pull the trash can a bit closer and now lob that bloody whiteboard marker into it!

[ssj]

Peter thanks, however when out buying there isnt much opportunity to strip. Now Ive used marking blue and yes its the best...and your method is the way...but i find white baord marker similar and easy to transport, unlike a pint of marking blue....

[Peter Laidler]

Bolt don't fit correctly, wrong number, bodged/bubba re-number and he won't let you do a simple check like removing the bolthead, then don't buy or if you really must, thenreduce the price. And using ANY form of marker, whiteboard, blackboard, shaving foam or engineers blue (ours is in a grease form and comes in a very small tube) without removing the bolthead WILL NOT PROVE what you're trying to prove or disprove!