Accuracy

[Mt203]

I find it difficult to understand how a wood/metal object remembers the shot before, and fires a predictable sequence. Is it not possible that the shooter was correcting for the previous shot by aiming off? That would explain the observed pattern.
What happens when another shooter uses the rifle?

Other shooter has used it with the same effect. Both have used it in a lead sled with the same results. All shots being at 100 yds. No issues with any of my other Lee Enfields like this.

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[ssgross]

I've had a similar issue shooting AR with irons at an SR-1 black circle at 100yds. Indoors, it's easy to lose the front sight post in the "blip" of black when using a center or bottom hold. Staying on the rifle, and on the sights for 3 straight shots results in center, high, low pattern - cursing for not getting the group I want, then center high low again, more cursing than repeat.
The pattern would be different depending on how I would "drop in" to my sight picture. From the bench, I typically start under the target, then bring the front sight up. So the second shot I would come up through the target too much, and overcompensate on the third shot.
Even if I come off the sights between shots, indoors it's still way to easy to lose the front sight on a black background - and variation in sight picture is much less noticeable and harder to detect with the same precision as outside. First part of the solution is to come off the sights between every shot. Next part, I either print off red SR-1 bulls on white paper, use a "sliver of white" hold just below the bull, or use Jim Owens' trick (in one of his books) of painting a hairs-breadth white line in the middle of the front sight post, when shooting at my indoor range. I won't say how many rounds or range days it took me to figure out this silly thing. I would shoot great outside on the weekend, then go indoors on a weeknight - same rifle, same ammo, but crazy inconsistent results.

This may be wholly unrelated to OP's issue as he says he waited for the barrel to cool down between each shot, unless he sat on the sights the whole time - in which case I apologize for wasting these few bytes of space on the internet with my irrelevant observation.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

Is the trigger-guard firmly retaining the fore-end? Are the "draws" that mate with the sear-lug blocks mating symmetrically and fully?

The trick with these beasties is that the fore-end bedding is totally unlike what one expects after tinkering with one-piece stock systems. Two-piece stock systems are not inherently inferior on a rifle. There are several "sporting" rifles that have two-piece stocks and impressive consistency down-range. Also, consider a couple of military sniping rigs; The L42A1 and the French FR-F2. Then you get all modern and consider the performance of AR- based rifles. Not only two-piece (three, really), stocks but a TWO-PIECE receiver setup.

Have a look back at the various "How to" articles on setting up the bedding, as published hereabouts.

[Mt203]

Is the trigger-guard firmly retaining the fore-end? Are the "draws" that mate with the sear-lug blocks mating symmetrically and fully?

The trick with these beasties is that the fore-end bedding is totally unlike what one expects after tinkering with one-piece stock systems. Two-piece stock systems are not inherently inferior on a rifle. There are several "sporting" rifles that have two-piece stocks and impressive consistency down-range. Also, consider a couple of military sniping rigs; The L42A1 and the French FR-F2. Then you get all modern and consider the performance of AR- based rifles. Not only two-piece (three, really), stocks but a TWO-PIECE receiver setup.

Have a look back at the various "How to" articles on setting up the bedding, as published hereabouts.

I haven't bedded it yet as I've just made sure it's set up properly essentially as issued being that it's mostly like new parts. I do have the following that I have used as resources, "Lee Enfield Performance Tuning Manual", "Lee Enfield Accuracy Secrets", "2012 Complete Book on Lee Enfield Accurizing", along with quite a few articles from Peter Laidler.

[30Three]

How are you checking the "draws" contact for even load on both sides?

[Mt203]

How are you checking the "draws" contact for even load on both sides?

Engineer blue. This Lithgow has the original recoil plates so it's easier.

[Havenot]

Not sure about Lithgow No.I rifles however when I got my SSA No.I it's accuracy wasn't quite what I thought it should be....close but rather random groups. My jungle carbine was better and so was my No.4 Mk.I rifle.

I investigated the deal a bit and found that all the parts were there except the spring for the screw that holds the mid barrel band...it was gone. I found a similar looking coil spring and cut it to length and tightened it down. Then it shot just as accurate as the others or better....and this with damaged draws(which I fixed later)

There are a lot of parts screws and springs involved in the No.I Mk.III* forearm/barrel fit. I noted the old SSA still appears to wear it's original forearm(worn walnut) and nosecap while the rest is replacement beech. I sort of figured Commonwealth armorers perhaps tried to keep the original front wood and parts together to maintain accuracy and sight regulation?

[Mt203]

Not sure about Lithgow No.I rifles however when I got my SSA No.I it's accuracy wasn't quite what I thought it should be....close but rather random groups. My jungle carbine was better and so was my No.4 Mk.I rifle.

I investigated the deal a bit and found that all the parts were there except the spring for the screw that holds the mid barrel band...it was gone. I found a similar looking coil spring and cut it to length and tightened it down. Then it shot just as accurate as the others or better....and this with damaged draws(which I fixed later)

There are a lot of parts screws and springs involved in the No.I Mk.III* forearm/barrel fit. I noted the old SSA still appears to wear it's original forearm(worn walnut) and nosecap while the rest is replacement beech. I sort of figured Commonwealth armorers perhaps tried to keep the original front wood and parts together to maintain accuracy and sight regulation?

Havenot; not sure if it was your suggestion, but I took my middle band spring out, opened it up slightly. I also took a little bit off the top handguard ears as they were touching very slightly. Well went to the range this morning and 5 shots is all 1.5" or less with a circular pattern vs the previous pattern.

Only other things I did since the last range trip was another coat of RLO and cleaned the barrel

[Havenot]

Does it have the tension spring and plunger under the nose-cap?

The barrel band spring tension deal on mine was odd....shot so-so with no spring(as received)...I made a new spring and shot it some more playing with the spring tension on the middle barrel band....more so-so to fair accuracy. Took the screw to tight as it would go and she shot pretty decent then.

I will say that this was years ago and I did not understand the LE draws and stock fit all that well. My rifles draws were hammered loose and I did not really figure that out until later. I repaired the SSA rifle's draws a couple years ago and it still prefers the barrel band snugged tight.

I'm just saying that the SMLE rifle has a lot of parts in play just in the forearm!

[Mt203]

Does it have the tension spring and plunger under the nose-cap?

The barrel band spring tension deal on mine was odd....shot so-so with no spring(as received)...I made a new spring and shot it some more playing with the spring tension on the middle barrel band....more so-so to fair accuracy. Took the screw to tight as it would go and she shot pretty decent then.

I will say that this was years ago and I did not understand the LE draws and stock fit all that well. My rifles draws were hammered loose and I did not really figure that out until later. I repaired the SSA rifle's draws a couple years ago and it still prefers the barrel band snugged tight.

I'm just saying that the SMLE rifle has a lot of parts in play just in the forearm!

It does have the tension spring and plunger. Draws are good as this was an unissued Slazenger forend with copper lugs. I'm guessing it was a combination of the middle band tension and top handguard ears touching slightly.