New 'Gunshow Inland' - need opinions and comments

[USGI]

Charlie, The wood isn't oil soaked in the area of the shelf - I figure that's a plus. I was debating about sliding the shelf back out again and either going with Elmers or the runny super glue. It takes some maneuvering to get it back in place. Would the super glue give me time to get in place, or would it be better to just wick it in as you described - and is the super glue a better choice than the Elmers? Breaking down my action is going to have to wait until Friday night or Saturday. Thanks for the link to your "new" carbines. My Type 3 sight has round stake marks (front and rear) on the right side only. I know my SA front band is a replacement, but still question that flat bolt until I do some more research on it. Maybe somebody at Inland took it home in their lunch box and when the round ones came out, decided to bring it back and trade for the improved version. - Bob

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[usgicollector]

Charlie,

Is this the type of staking you are talking about?
They were using both types I believe at Inland in the spring of '44.

[painter777]

Charlie,

Is this the type of staking you are talking about?
They were using both types I believe at Inland in the spring of '44.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IMG_4613-1.jpg

Dave,
I think thats it. I'll have to get a few pics this weekend.

thx,
Charlie

[frankderrico]

Hi Bob, this is how I fix the recoil shelf. HTH
Regards.....Frank

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=34249

[frankderrico]

Hi Dave, these are on one of my IBM's. The pics are fuzzy but almost identical to your Inland.
Could they have used similar tools and methods?
Regards.....Frank

Attachment 32192Attachment 32193

[Tired Retired]

On fixing the shelf...

I have had good luck with gorilla glue. I work it in place with a toothpick, the cover the area with a couple of layers of wax paper, I then put an old Type III (junk) recoil plate in place. Then screw it down to provide the "clamping" force until it dries. Its important to make sure you do not allow glue to flow down the screw hole or you are in trouble. I use th gorilla glue because it seems to hold up once I BLO the stock again.

Its a cheap way to using Frank's method (I don't have all the fancy-dancy wood working tools)

Hope that helps...

[frankderrico]

TR, your's and Painter's method is fine.
Just to add, don't get any glue on the the threads of the screw.
Gorilla glue is more forgiving time wise.
My example showed the plate entirerly broken away from the stock. It didn't show up until the stock was completly cleaned. My customer sent it to have the crack behind the plate fixed.

Regards.....Frank

[Bruce McAskill]

As to your flat bolt. It very well could have been done when the carbine was rebuilt. Early on through the early 50's round bolts were reserved for the M2 and M3 carbines during rebuilding and flat bolts were used for the rest. When carbines were rebuilt it's what ever parts were in the bins that were used and that very well is where the recoil plate screw was changed.

[USAFChief]

As to your flat bolt. It very well could have been done when the carbine was rebuilt. Early on through the early 50's round bolts were reserved for the M2 and M3 carbines during rebuilding and flat bolts were used for the rest. When carbines were rebuilt it's what ever parts were in the bins that were used and that very well is where the recoil plate screw was changed.

And, of course, your carbine could have been returned to service after rebuild and numerous parts -- including the stock and upper hand guard -- may have been replaced during Field Maintenance (or Depot repair). In the 1950s/60s SAMTU range carbines were being used for qualification firing almost daily (five days per week). In that time period I imagine most of them went through, for example, several bolt and operating slide replacements. There was no selectivity of parts by maker -- the replacement parts were whatever were next up in the bins. Occasionally there would be a cracked stock or hand guard. If there happened to be a carbine waiting to be shipped to Depot for, say, rebarreling its stock might be swapped out so the other carbine could be kept in service. You can see why so many carbines in the hands of present day owners often have such a mixed bag of parts. That is usually all part of their true history.

JP

[INLAND44]

Your parts with 'X'.I' were made for Inland and probably are original. I don't think the 'two-tone' receiver applies to the later carbines that were originally Parkerized, only the very early Dulite ones. The stock has been damaged, possibly by firing rifle grenades. Take your runny (watery) Super Glue and let it wick up into the cracks until refusal - do a little and let it absorb, then repeat over and over. Takes about 15 minutes. The next day its a piece of rock. Put your recoil plate in and tighten it. Put the action in the stock with the receiver tang hanging on the plate. The barrel should be an inch or more above the barrel channel. Smack the buttplate with the other hand and watch the action settle. It should stop with the barrel about 1/16" above the channel. Now when you assemble the band to the stock, you should not have to bear down on the barrel - it should already be in position to let the band slip over the nose and engage the handguard and the band retainer spring catch should snap into place. This is the optimum. Your carbine may not be fitted that well but at least you know what its supposed to do.
If the recoil plate is secure with the screw snugged down (not 'gorilla' tight - you may strip the screw or ferrule), you don't need to 'bed' it.
I would not remove the front sight to change out the band - it was put on there at the arsenal and represents the way the carbine was last in service.